Kenmore Sewing Machine frozen stitch selector and reverse feed dog mechanisms 1703 1803 1603 1755 1753 1802
I just acquired ANOTHER 1703 to fix! It needs a LOT of cleaning and oiling, to get everything functional.
UPDATE- ALL FREED UP AND SEWING!
UPDATE 10/23/2023 - I only learned the belt pulley by the handwheel, on this model was plastic , thanks to Joe Winchester, in one of the Vintage Kenmore groups on Facebook, discovered a brown plastic pulley on his 158.18033, and asked us to check ours. I found plastic pulleys on this 158.18130 (newer than 1603, 1703, 1803 models), one 158.18033, and one 158.17033, but other versions of these same models, both 17033, and 18033, which I worked on, had aluminum/metal pulleys.
The earlier models of 1603, 1703, 1803, which will had a 0, 1, 2, and SOME 3, for the version number, 158.1603x, 158.1703x, 158.1803x, the pulleys are alumunum, or another metal.
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| 158.18033 dark brown plastic pulley handwheel area |
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| 158.18031 aluminum pulley |
The video below, as well as this photo, shows where the pivot points are, from the underside of the vintage Kenmore mechanical sewing machines, always UNPLUG MACHINE BEFORE WORKING ON IT.
Remove the side panel, to access the pivot bar the reverse lever is attached to, this is a HIDDEN STICKY SPOT that needs cleaned, and oiled, for the entire mechanism to be freed up along the entire linkage.
To remove the right side panel on most vintage Kenmore sewing machines, like these 1603, 1703, 1803, 1753, 1755, 1802, 1813, etc... pop the top off the machine, by opening the faceplate over the light, it is on hinges.
Then use a flathead screwdriver, between the top of the machine, and the frame of the machine, to leverage the top up, and off (it is spring clips holding it on, no screws).
Remove the 2 tiny black screws securing the side panel, at the TOP, in front of, and behind the handwheel. Some models will require you to remove the handwheel, as well, to remove the side panel to access this area. (I put these screws back in the holes, after removing the side panel, and turn them a few turns, so they don't get lost, during work on the machine.
To remove the handwheel, slip a right angle hook, or pick, to pull the plastic, or metal disc in the center of the handwheel (there is a tiny hole at the edge of this decor plate), then remove the screw in the center of the plastic handwheel, to remove this plastic handwheel cover. Now you should have full access, to change your belts, when you tip your machine back.
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| Red toothbrush handle points to pivot rod you must free up and oil for reverse mechanism. Remove side panel, to access this pivot point FROZEN STITCH SELECTOR Beware of people telling you to first use heat, instead of cleaning out the old dry, sticky oil, since time and heat are exactly what causes oil to dry up and stick again, making the issue worse, and if too much heat is used, can cause parts to break. While some parts are steel, some are weak pot metal, the knobs are plastic, with a thin metal coating. Heating the metal attached to the knob, can cause the knob to crack and break, especially if you try to force the knob to turn, before freeing up the pivot point of the stitch selector lever. FIRST- Clean out dry sticky oil, with a safe solvent. (I prefer to use rubbing alcohol, or unscented kerosene, but occasionally, I resort to a short squirt of WD40 or Liquid Wrench, immediately followed by a drop of Tri Flow oil. The WD40 is a penetrant, a solvent, not a long term lubricant, so needs blown, or flushed out, once the area is unstuck) helps the TriFlow penetrate in tiny stuck areas, like pivot points, on this lever, or on cam folliwer pivot, reverse lever pivot points, so you don't need to take things apart, to fix them. An old toothbrush can help scrub the pivot point, moving stick oil out of the pivot point sides, to speed up the process. Wipe excess solvent up, and only then, if the pivot isn't freed up, consider a short use of hair dryer heat, to soften the stubborn dry oil, add fresh oil, and try to work the pivot. Then oil the pivot points, and the roller bearing (on the end of the pivoting lever inside, that allows the stitch selector to stop on each stitch.) People tend to not realize the way this stitch selector functions, they mistakenly assume the problem is the front knob, needs oiled, it does not. If they look inside, they see the circular back section of the stitch selector, and assume then, it must have a stuck pivot point. It does not. The pivoting lever, that actually controls the stitch selector, has a spring, which helps the lever hold tension, so the lower end of the lever, with the roller bearing, can stay in the divot, or low area, for each stitch selection. When the pivot point gets dried oil in it, that is stronger than the tension of that spring, the pivot becomes stuck, either not allowing the stitch selector to turn, or, if the lever is pivoted with the roller at the high point, of the stitch selector, it won't stay set, on a particular stitch, the dial just keeps turning. Your job is to clean out this dry sticky oil, get the pivot point free, and oil it, so it can pivot freely. You also need to do this for the roller bearing, at the lower end of the lever, so it can roll easily, as the stitch selector is turned. (While in this area, it is a good idea to clean and oil the reverse mechanism, nearby, as well, to keep your machine in top condition.) |
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| Sorry my photo isn't more clear, the left side shows my flathead screwdriver pointing to the bottom of the long pivoting lever, which has a tiny bearing sticking out, that rolls along the surface of the stitch selector mechanism, and needs to be able to pivot to push the round bearing into the divots, or slots, which are what make your stitch selector stop at each selection, as you turn the stitch selector on the front of the machine. |
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| Screwdriver is pointing at the long bar that is supposed to pivot against the stitch selector dial, and go down into those divots in the stitch selector dial on the back of the machine. Due to that long bar being on a pivot point, and the pivot point being sticky with dry oil, it isn't pivoting, and the spring on it, can't make it move. The second video in this blogpost tells which parts to clean up, and how. This one was completely frozen, but I was able to free it up, clean and oil it, and now it works GREAT! (So I have 2 1703's, a 1603 and 1803, and 1813 in the current herd! They were all totally frozen, when I got them.) |
When the long stitch selector lever is frozen, at it's pivot point (I am pointing at the very bottom of this long lever, in the photo above), the spring can't push it into the divots for each stitch, and if it is frozen with the lever in one of these divots, you won't be able to turn the stitch control knob on the front of your sewing machine.
If it is frozen with the lever tipped with the bottom out, your stitch selector will turn freely, but will not select any stitches. Halfway up this lever, is where you need to free it up, and yup, while rubbing alcohol helps, or kerosene, it is in such a difficult to reach spot, you may need to resort to my new tactic, a squirt of WD40, (you will be using WD40 only as a SOLVENT, do NOT use it as a lubricant in your sewing machine, or it can freeze up sooner.) followed immediately, by a squirt of TriFlow Oil (or sewing machine oil).
(I remove the motor from the motor mount, and lay the machine gently on it's back, on a rubber mat, to do this, BEFORE using WD40. Then I can check the motor brushes easily, while it is off, but do not disconnect the wiring.)
You DO NEED TO USE THE TINY STRAW on BOTH of these applications, you don't want these sprayed everywhere, only in the joints where metal is supposed to pivot, or rub, or slide against metal. The Tri Flow is SUCKED INTO the tiny slots, or area between metals, when you apply it this way.
YOU MUST CLEAN UP ANY EXCESS WD40 and oil, do NOT let it drip on your motor, or you will need to clean the motor. (A layer of paper towels under the parts receiving this treatment, can help prevent a dangerous mess. )
I've learned that professional shops use an air compressor to blow the WD40 out of machines, which they have treated this way, it is often the fastest way to free up frozen parts, but MUST be done carefully, and cleanup is extremely important for safety. Without the accompanying Tri Flow Oil (or sewing machine oil), this would allow the machine to freeze up again, sooner, rather than later. That is the main reason most of my earlier posts were very anti WD40. Apparently, Kroil is used in a similar manner, but you MUST do it right, or it can cause more trouble than help.
Lay machine on it's back, on a padded work surface, remove the 12 mm bolt holding the motor on the motor mount, and to move the motor out of the way, disconnect the belt from the motor pulley, and lay the motor on your work surface, it will still be attached to the machine, by the electrical wiring.
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| Check your motor carbon brushes, while the motor is off, there will be one black carbon brush and spring under each black cap. Unscrew cap, holding hand over it, to prevent spring flying across the room. Tap motor gently, with the opening facing down, to allow any carbon grit, to fall out. If the black carbon brush is in good shape, with plenty of carbon remaining, replace it, and screw cap back on, matching the curve worn surface, to fit curve of commutator it spins around, for best results. |
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| Second carbon brush. Notice chunk of black grit on mat. These can cause squealing, and poor motor strength and function, left in motor. |
The reverse mechanism has what should be a loose "flapper", which is immediately beside the reverse cam follower "box", with the cam which engages reverse, for both locking stitches, when you flip the lever, but also, for creating the stretch stitches, both decorative, and the hard wearing stretch overlock stitches, by sewing a repeat cycle of two stitches forward, one stitch back.
These very important mechanisms, are some of the most commonly frozen by old oil, drying to a glue.
TIP-Yes! If necessary, a quick squirt of WD40, using the tiny straw to direct WD40 exactly into the tiny narrow openings where oil is needed. IMMEDIATELY followed by a squirt of TriFlow OR SEWING MACHINE OIL, with it's tiny straw, to aim exactly where you sprayed WD40, it will suck the oil in, let it soak, but flip the lever many times, to work the old oil out. REPEAT, until entire mechanism is freed up, and springs pull correctly, on the various levers, cam follower, pivot points, etc... THIS ACTUALLY WORKS!
I seriously will need to add this tip to most blogposts where the location of frozen sewing machines, makes it super difficult to clean and oil, especially for these mechanical Kenmores!
CLEANING THE FEED DOG PLUNGER MECHANISM
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| After tapping the tip of the plunger with a flathead screwdriver laid across the end of the plunger tip, and tapping it with a rubber mallet, it allowed me to pull the plunger free, so I could use my Qtips dipped in rubbing alcohol, to remove all of the sticky brown oil from the plunger itself. I then added a couple of drops of oil to the plunger, so it won't stick. |
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| Feed Dog TUBE after I pulled the plunger to the right, I dipped a Qtip in rubbing alcohol and cleaned out the tube inside, of the feed dog linkage mechanism. After removing all sticky oil, I added a drop of clean oil to the end of the tube, so the plunger won't stick. |
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| Close up view of cleaning out the feed dog plunger tube, to remove old sticky oil. You can see where the parts pivot away from each other, at the joint, but if this joint is too sticky, it won't pivot, to release the feed dogs. After cleaning, add fresh Tri Flow or sewing machine oil. |
