How Much is my Sewing Machine worth?

September 25, 2015

How Much is my Sewing Machine worth?

HOW TO SELL YOUR SEWING MACHINE

September 19, 2015 at 9:07pm

By Becky Rice Ware -
When you want to sell your sewing machine, the best way to get the highest price, is to advertise it with lots of good photos, & if possible, a video of it sewing, or photos of the machine & all of the accessories, including a neatly sewn stitch sampler, sewn on 2 layers of fabric. Great photos & clear information go a long way towards attracting the kind of buyer who is willing to pay for a good sewing machine.

Bernina 830 sewing machine in case, with a tacklebox or presser feet and accessories, shown with the stitch test sample, showing how well it functions. Hot pad holder sewn on it, also shown.

Special presser feet can make a HUGE difference in how hard or easy it is to sew things. If you want to sew satin stitch embroidery designs, having either the zigzag satin stitch embroidery foot, or the open front zigzag satin stitch foot, both have a tunnel under the presser foot, which allows extra room for the satin stitch threads that are forming on the fabric, to feed smoothly, without getting caught on the needle opening of the presser foot. This is the number 1 problem people have, when trying to sew fancy satin embroidery stitches with their machine, because the extra thread needs room to exit out the back of the presser foot, otherwise, the stitches start forming on top of each other, instead of next to each other, until your machine literally sews the needle, thread, & fabric, all attached together, to your bobbin, and sewing machine!

This situation sometimes results in destruction of the entire project, requiring new fabric, & starting all over again, besides the frustration of trying to carefully cut the threads, to get the machine freed up again, without damaging it. Having the right foot, for the specific task, saves time, frustration, & money!

Bernina 830 stitch sample, and a view down into the machine, showing the gears are in good shape, and that all functions are working well.

Show a photo looking down into the sewing machine, with the top open, as well as a stitch sample sewn with this machine, help show the machine is in good working order, & that it is well built & maintained. This fabric is a stretch denim, 2 layers, which I sewed with my Bernina 830 Record sewing machine, showing all of the stitches it can sew.

Note there is a nylon gear, next to the stitch cams, as well as the main driveline gear, but these ones are in good condition. (The 700 & 800 series Bernina sewing machines did have a recall on these gears, due to the company trying a new material for the gears for these machines only. The material dried, causing the gears to crack & break, prematurely, hence the recall. If a machine owner did not take the machine in for a replacement gear, they will crack & break, so it is wise to watch for this, when buying a used machine.)

If you have your manual, or advertisements & flyers for your sewing machine, which have clear photos & illustrations of the special features your machine has, include photos of those, to help educate buyers about special features.

HOW MUCH IS MY SEWING MACHINE WORTH?

FIRST, THE SHORT QUICK ANSWER- a sewing machine is worth exactly how much money someone else is willing to pay, & pick it up, or have it shipped for! If they are willing to pay it, that is what it is worth to them. If it isn't selling for the price you are asking, you either are not advertising in the best way, on the best site, for the right buyers to find it, or you have it overpriced.

Auctions usually get the highest prices, but ONLY if your auction uses the best photos & description, so that buyers can find it quickly, easily, & if you make it easy for the buyer to get it delivered to their home. Craig's List & garage sales are where buyers are willing to pay the LOWEST PRICES, you are lucky to get $75 for even a vintage Bernina, in a special sewing table, at a garage sale!

Most Ebay sellers of sewing machines, pick them up free, or up to $25 at garage sales on the weekend, sell them on Ebay during the week, as "industrial" "heavy duty" & ship them off to their new homes, for a hefty profit. That is the reality. They don't service them, they don't know if they work, & don't even care what condition they are in. No guarantees.

Ebay is the place you are most likely to sell your vintage sewing machine for a high price, but it really requires you taking the time to photograph it well, write an informative advertisement, because buyers pay more, when they perceive an item has great properties, which make it better than the other machines for sale at the same time. You don't want to list your machine for a higher price than the other machines identical to it, in condition & accessories, or yours will not sell. The auction format usually works better at getting a higher price, but only if more than one buyer bids on your machine, so starting with a low price, usually attracts more bidders, which gives a much better possibility of selling it for a higher price. If your machine is in much better condition than usual, with more accessories, a Buy It Now sale can be successful, but it usually takes longer, because it has a higher price than the auction style ads. I've seen the Bernina 930 Record, with the machine, extension table, pedal, cord, manual, & a tackle box of presser feet, bar & accessories, sell for $895 on Ebay, as a Buy It Now, because it was the electronic version, with the built in "needle up/down" feature. It had stitch samples, showing not only that it worked, but sewed stitches beautifully, with perfect tension, so stitches were perfect on both sides of the stitch sample, & a video of the machine working, as well as a wealth of photos, helped sell it for a higher price than others on Ebay at the same time.

BEST TIME TO BUY WORST TIME TO SELL- The worst time to sell a sewing machine on Ebay, & the best time to buy one, is the last couple weeks of school, & first couple weeks of summer vacation, then the last 2 weeks of summer, & first 2 weeks of school.

THE LONG, INFORMATIVE ANSWER-

I have sewn since the early 70s, making most of my own clothing, curtains, quilts, costumes, mending, darning, etc., so sewing has always been a part of my life, since I was old enough to hold a needle, or use a machine. The past 30 years, however, I have had the opportunity to own, repair, & sew with, a huge variety of sewing machine brands & models, as well as their cases, presser feet, & accessories. I have also had the opportunity to read hundreds of sewing machine manuals, as well as high school & college textbooks for fashion design, as well as industrial sewing, & learned the enormous differences between home sewing machines & industrial sewing machines.

The internet has added an incredible amount of opportunities to share sewing & repair information across the world, as well as allowing us to make sewing tutorial videos freely available, & share which sewing industry books & videos are the most instructive. A large number of sewing machine manufacturerers, & sewing experts have started their own websites, selling their books & videos, as well as computerized pattern fitting & making systems, so you can even learn to make your own patterns, with your individual measurements. Sewing is a whole new world today, compared to even the year 2000!

My deepest interest in sewing began with watching sewing experts argue online over which techniques were "professional", or just stupid (crowding, for example), then talking with mechanical engineers & sewing machine technicians about what machines are better for what use, & why, researching through patents, factory closing sales, using the internet, as well as large numbers of people dumping their grandma & mom's sewing machines, making them easy to find, & cheap to purchase. Friends who worked in industrial sewing factories, introduced me to the industrial serger, as well as high speed sewing, including the type of "chainstitching" that means you don't pause to cut the thread, between sewing seams as you sew an entire stack of items.

All of these incredible factors came together, allowing me to gain an enormous amount of information about what machines work best in which situations, as well as why some brands & models enjoy MUCH higher prices than others, even when they are more than 20 years old. I have learned which improvements in machines & accessories made some machines more popular, simply because they are easier to thread, have better feet & accessories, that are faster & easier to change & use, & because the company teaches them how to use them. The special feet & attachments formerly only available for industrial machines, & sold only to dry cleaners & industrial factories, have now become available for the home & hobby sewists. (Yeah, it's hard to use the word sewer, without the negative plumbing association, so a lot of us like the word sewist, instead. I go back & forth, but I'll use sewist most of the time... probably, if I remember...) :D

For the past 20 years, I have been closely monitoring sewing machine sales, particularly vintage sewing machines, on Ebay, Craig's List, Goodwill online, Etsy, & other sites. I learned that just because someone is ASKING for a specific price, has nothing to do with the actual VALUE, or what it SOLD for! The best way to see what your machine is selling for on Ebay the past couple of weeks, sign into Ebay, type your sewing machine brand & model in the search box, & hit enter.

This will bring up all of those machines currently for sale. To see what has sold in the past couple of weeks, then go down the left side of this page, & click on "completed listings". Prices in red did not sell, prices in green did. If there is a line through the green price, it sold for less than the amount shown. To see what the opening bid was, on auctions with prices in green, click on the # of bids. You will now see all bids, including the opening bid.

You can further research WHY machines sold for higher or lower prices, & why some didn't sell at all. You will be able to see which auction titles helped more buyers find it, & why more people bid higher prices on one machine, while the identical machine didn't sell at all, even having extra special accessories! The more bidders find your auction, the higher price it will sell for, so starting with a low auction opening bid, is the best way to get a high price. However, you have to use the best auction title & description, to "hook" those bidders!

Make sure you use the key words that were used in the auctions that sold for the highest prices. Just calling a machine "sewing machine" isn't going to get you buyers. Include the brand, the model, & any rare or special features, that really make it valuable & easy to use. Sew samples on various types of fabric, & take a photo of all the samples together, some while sewing.

The more photos you include, that show different features of the machine, & why it is so valuable, make a big difference in whether buyers will gamble on buying from you. The more neatly organized your items are in the photos, & the more information that those photos give about your item, the more likely you are to sell it, & for a higher price. 12 identical photos isn't going to do it. A photo of the metal gears inside, one with all of the feet neatly lined up, a photo of sewing jeans on your machine, sample stitches, on different fabrics, a close up of all of the stitches the machine sews, a photo of a piece of fabric being wrapped around a piece of cording, & stitching it with the zipper/cording foot, those are the kinds of photos that sell sewing machines. A photo of a box of jumbled up feet & accessories, is not a selling point. Neatly organized feet & accessories ARE!

Is it "heavy duty"? Does it have both low & high speed available? Can the feed dogs be lowered for quilting, embroidery, & darning? Does it have embroidery stitches? Does it have REVERSE, to lock the first & last stitches? (Many older straight stitch only machines, & some industrial sewing machines do NOT have reverse. (Sergers do not have, or need reverse, only lockstitch machines.) Does the machine have enough power to sew through several layers of denim, vinyl, or other difficult to sew fabrics? Can it sew leather, without damaging the machine? (Use the correct needle, & if the motor sounds like it is struggling, for heaven's sake, QUIT! If it struggles, either it isn't heavy duty enough to sew leather, or you are using the wrong needle.) Typically, using a treadle or handwheel is the best way to sew leather, particularly if it isn't lightweight clothing quality suede, or similar soft leather. Don't use a fabric sewing machine for hard leather sewing, unless you don't care if you break the machine. )

Does it sew "stretch" stitches? (Stitches that have reverse automatically built into the stitch itself, this will include ducks, flowers, fish, & many other decorative stitches, as well as the triple straight & zig zag stitches. These are almost impossible to pick out of fabric, without damaging it, so not everyone needs these.) Do you want a machine that comes in a case you can put away in a cupboard? Or do you want a machine installed in a table or desk, that sets up your machine with the touch of a button? Is it easy to access the bobbin, to change the bobbin thread? (This is extremely important! Some machines will literally fall over backwards, off your sewing table, when you lift the front of the machine, to access the bobbin. Some of the best high speed home sewing machines, including the Pfaff 30, 130, 230, 260 have this specific difficulty, so it is safest to install them in a table, with a hole for you. If you want a vintage Pfaff with easy access to the bobbin case, try the free arm versions, like the 330, 360, 332, 362.)

Whether you are looking for a sewing machine, or if you have a machine to sell, it helps to know what specifics play a part in the value of a sewing machine. Both sewing machine buyers & sellers, can use this information to guide to help determine these values for themselves. The right machine makes a huge difference in how enjoyable & productive your time spent sewing, will be, or if your sewing time will just be a chore, made worse by a bad sewing machine!

Trying to determine how much to pay for a machine, is complicated, so I am creating a guide to suggest what to criteria to use when you look for a new (to you) machine, approximately what pay, & what to ask, & what to expect. To begin, here are a few critically important factors to keep in mind-

BRAND QUALITY + FEATURES (MODEL) + CONDITION + ACCESSORIES + INSTRUCTION MANUAL + SERVICED + WARRANTY + = PRICE

QUALITY & BRAND - This should literally be your first criteria when considering a machine, because each sewing machine manufacturer developed their reputation, based upon the quality of their machines & accessories, as well as the supporting manuals & educational materials they provide for their machines. Not every brand was actually a manufacturer, though, so many of the brand names we associate with vintage sewing machines, like Sears Kenmore, & Montgomery Ward, never actually manufactured machines themselves. Instead, they hired various companies like National Sewing Company, Maruzen Jaguar, Davis, White and Gritzner-Kaiser to fill contracts for their various models.

The big brand name companies, Singer, New Home (now Janome), White, Wheeler & Wilson, Bernina, Necchi, Elna, Morse, Pfaff, & others like them, stayed in business with a combination of high quality, new features, exclusive feet & attachments, & an incredible educational support system, which includes classes, workbooks, websites, & projects that use the new feet & attachments. They also emphasize maintenance of your new sewing machine, & apparently, the new computerized systems, do need regular maintenance, not only for the mechanical parts like the vintage sewing machines, but the electronics & computer programs themselves, may need updated.

If you are going to have one machine be your dedicated straight stitch only, lock stitch sewing machines, a vintage straight stitch only sewing machine can give you higher speeds, & better quality stitches, and will handle many more hours of sewing (as long as you keep it properly maintained & oiled) than today's plastic machines you will find for the same, or even higher prices. If you can only afford a low priced machine, a vintage straight stitch or zigzag metal sewing machine may be your best bet, simply because they are currently, readily available, often as cheap as $20 at garage sales & thrift stores, & you can learn to maintain it yourself.

You can even find zigzaggers, blind hemmers, buttonholers, binders, rufflers, tucker & tuck markers, shirring & rolled hemmer feet in various sizes, for even the oldest straight stitch only sewing machines, you just have to make sure that you purchase attachments & feet that use the same shank system (where they attach to the machine) that your machine has, usually low shank, slant shank, high shank, extra high shank, or Bernina's old or new shank system (only for Bernina's) also try to match feet the width of the maximum zigzag stitches the machine sews, for best stitch quality. Not all zigzag sewing machines sew the same width of zigzag stitches. Also make sure the position of the presser foot needle opening in each foot, is located where your sewing machine's needle goes down, or the needle could hit the presser foot, and break the needle, and knock your machine out of time, so it won't sew properly.

There are a wide variety of snap on presser feet available, you just have to have the snap on foot shank that fits your machine, & buy only snap on feet that fit that shank, they are not all the same, some have narrow attachment, some have wide attachment area, Viking Husqvarna has a medium width snap on shank, & Pfaff makes theirs with 2 places that the foot snaps on, so other shanks can't be used with those feet.

Sewing samples showing the machine can sew thick fabrics, like these hot pad holders. Notice the thread is still connected to the needle & bobbin of the machine, & white thread on top, red on the bottom, shows the machine tension is balanced properly.
The original price of a machine will often be mirrored in their resale value. Example- many paid as much as $1,200 for a Bernina 930, when it was new. If you want a used one, particularly if you expect it to include the case, manual, accessories & accessory case, pedal & cord, extension table, expect to pay a minimum of $450, not including shipping & handling. For a really good condition 930, particularly if it has been reconditioned, & includes the walking foot, cut 'n sew, case, manual & accessories, & more than 8 presser feet, anywhere from $700 to $1,200! Bernina has "Feetures" & other workbooks & educational manuals that are extremely comprehensive, & sell for almost brand new price, sometimes higher, if enough people are bidding on them on Ebay!

If a sewing machine was expensive & popular new, they generally will be expensive & popular as vintage machines, as long as the manufacturer kept quality high. Unfortunately, all sewing machine manufacturers eventually adopted the business model that includes "built in obsolescence", or "automatic breakage" to ensure that buyers would continue to need new machines, to keep profits up. There is good news, though, & that is, that before built in obsolescence was adopted, tens of millions of well built, almost "unbreakable" vintage sewing machines, which are pretty good little machines, if well cared for.

If a sewing machine has been completely serviced and tested, a high price can be appropriate, but if you are able to clean and service a sewing machine yourself, garage sale prices are much lower, than buying from a sewing machine dealership, or shop which services and repairs sewing machines.

Many people forget that anyone cleaning, repairing, and servicing sewing machines, especially as a business, has to spend money for missing, or worn out parts, and the individual doing the work to make vintage machines usable, certainly deserves a living wage. When people complain about not being able to find someone who will service and repair their vintage sewing machines, it is because we have gotten used to getting previous generation's no longer needed sewing machines for super low prices. We forget that, to our grandparents generation, a good sewing machine often cost as much as a car, so monthly payments were made for years, to afford them.

If you buy a used machine that has not been serviced, repaired, or serviced, a lower price is nice, but if getting it running, required the seller to find, and purchase the correct pedal and cord ($15), presser foot ($10), a manual ($10), possibly a tension unit ($15), new belts ($20), if you can find the right one), bed extension (if you want and need it, if not included, usually runs $15), bobbin tire ($5), a light bulb ($10), then the oil and grease, (and hours of work, if it was frozen, or parts not working) their time, and skill, then I can't expect to pay garage sale prices. Especially if they had to invest money to buy the machine, even at garage sale prices, then fix it up, the price isn't as high as some people in online vintage sewing machine groups make it seem.

The prices could be higher, or lower, for the various parts I mentioned, but could also require shipping costs to be added. This is just a reminder that bargain priced machines are not available everywhere, and parts to fix, or maintain a machine, all cost money. Our vintage sewing machines are worth far more money, when parted out, though we vintage sewing machine lovers tend to leave that out, and share our bargain basement prices, that some not are lucky enough to find, in their area.

We are often offended that anyone would part out a vintage sewing machine, but forget that if there wasn't anyone parting them out, we would not be able to find what we need to fix our own machines. I try to remind myself of these details, when I think the cost of an already serviced, tested, and working perfectly, sewing machine is up for sale, at a price I consider high. metal sewing machines were manufactured before most of us were born, & those sewing machines are much higher quality than the brand new sewing machines sold today!

Early sewing machine manufacturers competed with each other by offering special features & accessories, trying to attract buyers for their machines, but once the competition figured out what sells machines, they adopt those features too, especially after the patents on those features, expire.

Oddly enough, most sewers will never need every feature invented for sewing machines, most sewers can get by with just a straight stitch sewing machine, but at least one zigzag stitch comes in very handy for sewing stretch fabrics, as well as finishing seams, to prevent fraying of woven fabrics. For addicted speed sewing nuts, a serger, and/or true industrial sewing machines are a must!

At various times in history, a sewing machine cost as much as a brand new car, or even a year's wages. With most sewing going industrial, home sewing machines are not as necessary, so the prices are actually pretty depressed for old sewing machines, particularly if they are dirty, missing parts or accessories, or sellers only offer them for sale to people who can pick them up. This is why the garage sale market prices are so low, & unless a machine is a highly sought after brand & model, most buyers won't pay more than $40 at a garage sale, even if a sewing table is included.

Ebay & Craig's List, as well as Etsy & other online selling sites, have made it much easier to sell a used sewing machine, but you are competing with millions of other buyers & sellers, & if you don't figure out how to best set up your sale, you may not be able to sell it at all.

Bernina 930 with presser feet, shows stitches on top of machine, as well. A lot of information, in one close up photo.

Thanks to the internet, a bumper crop of opportunist, self appointed vintage sewing machine "experts" has sprung up, hawking ordinary home sewing machines as 'industrial', & 'leather' sewing machines, listing their machines as "all steel" (many are aluminum, not steel, but these guys don't bother to really check), & otherwise hoodwinking unsuspecting buyers. Don't get me wrong, there are some true experts out there, I personally consider Zeus on Ebay, to be the Pfaff expert, & regularly recommend sewing machine mechanics & technicians like Ray White of WhiteSewingCenter.com, to be gurus to aspire to be like! There are many other incredible people who know their sewing machines, & freely share their knowledge with strangers online, hoping to keep these sewing treasures from being wasted in landfills. I salute all who are committed to helping not only other people, but committed to the "green idea" of keeping these mechanical treasures in running condition, & teaching upcoming generations the joy of creation, the pleasure of being able to build on the inventions & ideas of generations already past.

If buyers can see the ads used to originally sell the machine, chances are, it will help sell yours, as well. Innovations in sewing, special features, like the free arm, extension tables, zig zag decorative stitches

REVERSE- lock first & last few stitches, so seam won't tear open

STRAIGHT STITCH- still the most used stitch in the entire sewing industry

ZIGZAG- embroidery stitches, stretch stitches that if done properly, will allow stretch fabric to stretch, without tearing the seam.

CHAINSTITCH- some sewing machines only sew a straight stitch, one thread chainstitch, like the Singer 20, 24. Easy to tear out. (Many vintage sewing machines included special bobbincase adapters, and a chainstitch needleplate, to allow lock stitch sewing machines to sew the chainstitch! Even an antique Standard treadle sewing machine came with this feature!

STRETCH STITCHES - This refers to stitches that have reverse stitches built in, like the triple straight stitch or triple zigzag (almost impossible to pick) they sew two stitches forward, one stitch back, repeatedly, for a seam which stretches, instead of breaking the thread, when stretched!

NEEDLE POSITION OPTIONS - Makes needle & stitch placement much easier, particularly for mending in awkward spots, or specialty sewing.

METAL OR PLASTIC -

Bernina 930 with manual, special accessories, including ruffler, walking foot & Cut 'n sew.

FURNITURE - Do you want a sewing machine installed in a table, so you have a dedicated sewing area always set up, or easy to set up?

HOW WAS IT USED -Was a used machine heavily used? Motor may not last, may have worn out parts, look for paint missing near needle plate.

HIGH SPEED vs. LOW SPEED - are you a speed demon? Or do you need a machine that goes slow, so you can sew carefully?

WHAT CAN IT SEW - Do you need to sew leather? Most of us don't, but you need to buy a machine that can sew the fabrics you want to sew.

Bernina flyer. If you have any advertisements or flyers for your machine, include them & information from them, in your sale information.

WHAT NEEDLES DOES IT REQUIRE? The most common home sewing machine needle is 15x1, but some machines need special, rare, obsolete needles, which can only be found through the internet, because they are no longer manufactured. Before spending more than $20 on a rare or unusual machine, if you don't know what type of needles it takes, research it on the internet, to save yourself grief.

If a manual has exceptional information, like Bernina's presser feet for special uses, include photos of that in your sale post.
RESTORED- all old oil & lubricants cleaned off, & removed, then oil & lubricate all moving parts as well as polishing the commutator & replacing the old motor brushes, if worn down more than halfway. Replace worn belts, friction pulleys & bobbin rings, & any cracked or broken gears. All function must be fully restored, including timing, & feed dogs. This is really worth $250 to $450 (possibly $600 if Pfaff 130, 260, 360, 332, Bernina 930, 940, 950, similar high end machines with special functions & accessories. The more accessories, the higher the value.), if it is a sturdy, mostly metal machine, but only if it has all of it's parts. No plastic machine is worth this, unless they literally do everything, like Babylock & Bernina new machines, with unique patented features! I figure straight stitch machines are worth a little less, unless they are big industrials, or the high quality early treadle to electric versions. Furniture should cost more.

SERVICED- cleaned & oiled, lubricated, replace belts & bobbin rings, if cracked. (Entire machine has to be functional before servicing, timing & feed dogs have to be operating properly. Any repairs & parts have to be added into the price base.) With this minor servicing, I wouldn't pay above $200 for a machine with a lot of stitches, if this is the only work done on it before reselling it. For a straight stitcher, it would normally be lower, unless it is something extremely rare & special, like the Singer Featherweight 222k free arm straight stitch sewing machine. Those almost never sell below $500, up to $1,200. Other straight stitch machines typically are lower valued, unless they are special features.

Price is very dependent on how essential sewing is to the country & society you live in, when the machine is sold. With inexpensive clothing & sewn items readily available, sewing machines will not have as high of value, other than to those who enjoy it for a hobby, or have other specific reasons for sewing. Currently (2015), in the U.S.A., even the good metal vintage sewing machines are not valued anywhere near the level they were before free trade agreements decimated the sewing manufacturing base in the U.S.A., so sewing machines are readily available, often thrown out, simply because Americans, in general, don't realize that they are one election, or one war away from desperately needing them. If another world war began, all the inexpensive goods from China, India, Asia, & possibly even other countries, would suddenly be either shut down, or dramatically diminished. The value of remaining machines would skyrocket, as well as the price of fabric & ready made clothing.

WARRANTY Used sewing machines don't come with a warranty or guarantee, unless the contract or auction specifically states that it does. Due to Ebay & Paypal trying to encourage everyone to buy with their company, some Ebay sellers now offer a one year warranty, & rarely, a lifetime warranty. Those warranties will only be good, as long as you own the machine, or when the seller dies, or quits working, whichever comes first. I have noticed that some of the sellers who do offer these, do sell their machines for much higher prices. I've seen a straight stitch only sewing machine, that sells for $10 at a garage sale, be sold by one of these sellers, for over $800! These sellers often paint "heavy duty" & "industrial" lettering on these machines (even the Japanese 15 clones), to mislead buyers into thinking they are buying a truly industrial, heavy duty sewing machine. Beware of these scammers. If they have to paint "heavy duty" & "industrial", you can pretty much guarantee it is a HOME SEWING MACHINE, NOT a heavy duty, or industrial machine. A warranty is great, but once you pay shipping to & from the seller, if you can actually track them down, when you need to, you might as well take it to your local sewing machine repair place, or learn to fix it yourself. A warranty is just words, if there isn't a large manufacturer behind it!

Make tutorials of things your machine can do, they help sell! Bernina 930 with walking foot, sewing a heavy denim cover on an old oven mitt. The silver applique around the light blue applique was also sewn with the 930.