Sears Kenmore Model 95, 1652, 1750 illustrations from the manuals
Top to bottom 95, 1652, 1750 manual comparison of machines notice the slight differences in the light cover faceplate, and the size, shape, and decor of the beauty plate behind the stitch width knob and stitch length/reverse lever. 1650 (manual illustrations in photo at bottom of this post) has 2 parallel stripes down the beauty plate behind the stitch width knob, that none of these 3 have. The 1650 also has the same type of 2 level beveled noseplate (I think this cover may be plastic on some models that have the bevel here)
Top to bottom 95, 1652, 1750 manual comparison of machines
Top to bottom 95, 1652, 1750 manual comparison of machines
TIP- most of these models require the C cam #1 to ZIGZAG
Kenmore 96 (158.960) wonderful heavy duty sewing machine in a Kenmore sewing table, with the door that opens, with a tray for accessories. There is a spring lift in this cabinet, which I set to my mom (the whole machine, and table, in separate boxes, with the legs removed for shipping, of course)
1750 lid has the bobbin winder attached to the underside. The model 95 has the bobbin winder attached to the machine frame, not the lid, these are some of the differences between models. The cam lid opens sideways on the 1750, but front to back, on the 95.
1750 under the lid- Notice the simplicity of the mechanisms, one of my favorite aspects of these models.
1750 bottom of machine, once again, extremely simple, elegant, strong, metal! I was checking the bobbin hook gear grease, which was still soft. If grease is dirty, change it. If it is solid, change it. Otherwise, just repack the soft grease on the gears, it is correct to leave this packed quite full, for smooth, quiet, decades of sewing!
1750 front view buttonholer in front of it is missing some cams
Stuck in reverse? The blue highlighted part is the pivoting stitch length and reverse control, if tiled up at the front of machine, it is in reverse. If tilted down, in front, it is set to the longest stitch length.
Dry sticky oil on the green highlighted parts, will cause this to stick, be frozen, in either forward, or reverse.
I use rubbing alcohol on a Qtip or paintbrush, to clean out old sticky oil. If you can't get it clean enough this way, a squirt of WD40, followed by Tri Flow oil, or sewing machine oil, and work this pivoting part up and down manually, repeatedly, to work it in.
I often repeat this cycle a few times, until it is completely free, and operates as it should.
Diagram copyright owned by Searspartsdirect dot com Kenmore 158.950 feed diagram
1750(0) (left) 1650(0) and 95(0) buttonholer instructions vary by model some have the R and F (reverse and forward for sewing buttonholes using a special sliding buttonhole foot) while the left one uses a flat geared buttonholer. The lid of the attachments, or buttonholer, is where these are found.
Original accessory set with Kenmore 158.950 model 95 only is a book of 14 green cams, a buttonholer in a separate cream and green case, or green plastic case. You can find 45 different stitch cams available online that work in all models which accept this style & size of Kenmore cams. Notice the 95 has a slightly different decor plate under the stitch width dial .
Kenmore 158.960 model 96 with cam door on top, and zigzag stitch width dial, and stitch length lever on the front right, raise up, for reverse. Feed dog drop is the silver nickel sized lever, and white button is the light. This model is a wonderful wide zigzag stitch.
Kenmore 96 underside. Very simple, heavy duty mechanical parts, very simple electrical wiring. EXCELLENT machine, absolutely worth keeping cleaned and oiled, will outlast many generations, if properly cared for, even with LOTS of sewing!
This is NOT the original 96 set of accessories, just the lower left box is, but it would not have the bright green cams in it. The original set had the 14 cams, 10 single layer cams, 4 double layer cams, for stretch decorative stitches. All of the type C cams will fit it, however, so I put together a larger set for my mom, by taking an extra set of Kenmore 1802 accessories in their TOWER OF POWER trays, removing the super high shank feet (most were missing from this set, anyway), and replacing them with low shank and snap on presser feet. I added a low shank walking foot, darning foot, included a needle threader, and extra needles, a cleaning brush, extra bobbins, and of course put a snap on shank on the machine, before sending it to Mom in Florida! If you have seen a model 1802 set, you will notice that the buttonholer cam gear plate is much deeper than the 1802 plate, which would have originally been in this set.
The Sears Kenmore Model 158.950, is officially model 95, according to the manual. Multiple Sears Kenmore sewing machine models look almost identical to this one, including the 68, 95, 96, 1600, 1650, 1651, 1652, 1654, 1750, 1751, 1752 (1751 and 1752 have a fewcams builtin) and are green & cream colored machines, with different beauty plates - some silver, some stainless steel, some wood panel tone, behind the dial & lever- but more or less presser feet & cams were included with each model, depending on it's price point.) I have purchased and fixed up several of these, one is now in Portland, Oregon, with one of my sisters, the 96 is now in Florida, with my mom. I LOVE these simple, heavy duty machines, and absolutely recommend them as simple to use, and SUPER SIMPLE TO FIX, if anything goes wrong! An excellent machine to start sewing with, but also to learn machine maintenance on!
Zigzag stitch width IS WIDER in the luxury models, and is the big difference between some models, as well as some have chainstitch capability, while others do not. The number of cams varied by model number, as did other accessories.
Stitchsamples on left came with brand new machine from the factory, proving the stitches it could sew. Others were my home sewn stitch samples on scrap fabrics.
Sears Kenmore Model 95 and 96 are extremely good sewing machines! They are all metal model, with very simple mechanics, which makes it very simple to use, & very easy to maintain and repair, if ever necessary. My mom has the 95, I have 96 and we use them to make our own clothing, curtains, quilting, etc... The only repair I have had to do to mine, was that when I purchased it, it had been left in a shed in NC for 20 or so years, without being cleaned & oiled, so it was seized up, when I bought it.
I cleaned it up, oiled it, and because it had been left on the widest zig zag stitch, with the zig zag cam in it, the spring that pulls the mechanical parts between straight stitch & zig zag stitch, had worn out from being stretched to it's maximum length, and kept that way for so long! I spent $1.29 at Ace Hardware for a pack of 2 replacement springs, & the machine has worked flawlessly since then!
The +/- knob on back of model 96 machine, is your stretch stitch length control (stitch modifier), for how long or short, forward & back, each stretch stitch will be. This includes the flowers, dogs, & picture style stitches.
All 44 or 45 Sears Kenmore "C" cams fit this machine, regardless of whether they are green, orange, or cream colored! It does incredible satin stitch embroidery, and you can adjust how long or short you want those design stitches to be, by adjusting the +/- buttonhole/reverse stitch length control knob on the back of the sewing machine. The bright orange, and bright green C cams, with a very deep edge, and what looks like a magnet built into the plastic cam edge, seem like they wouldn't fit, but it is only the little "magnet" which prevents them from being used, and if you snap that little piece out, the cams work beautifully in the 95 & 96 models. (If you snap one of these cams in, and leave the magnet on it, as the cam turns, it will run this magnet into the follower, and will snap it off, sending it shooting like a bullet... don't ask how I know... lol!
This Kenmore sewing machine uses the standard class 15 bobbin & bobbin case, the cheapest and easiest bobbins & bobbin cases to find anywhere! You can control both stitch width & stitch length with the stitch width dial & stitch length/reverse lever on the front of the machine. Reversing is quick & easy by lifting the stitch length lever to the highest position, then moved back down to the stitch length you have set by spinning the thumbscrew inside the stitch length lever. The bobbin winder is on the top of the machine, and automatically stops winding when the bobbin is full.
This is a low shank sewing machine, so nearly all low shank sewing machine feet will fit the 95 & 96, including those labelled Greist, Singer, or Simanco. Low shank attachments available include ruffler, pleater, tucker, edgestitchers, shirring feet, rolled hemmers for a variety of widths, binders, you can even purchase off brand low shank "cut-n-sew" attachments which trim your seam as you sew a zig zag stitch which finishes the seam, creating an "overlock" stitch, similar to a serger.
Original Model 95 cam & buttonhole style set. Make sure the stainless steel buttonholer geared cover plate is the correct size for your machine, this style came in 3 sizes, for various models.
Another oddity regarding Sears Kenmore Sewing Machines- while all of the repair people I have checked with have said that the model number of Sears Kenmore sewing machines is the first 2 or 4 numbers to the right of the decimals on the nomenclature plates, extra numbers often denote the specific set of accessories that were sold with the model. The same machine was sold with different sets of accessories, or slightly different bobbin winders, or stitch modifier mechanisms, for different prices, especially for Mother's Day sales & Christmas sales, so had slightly different numbers, after the model number. My Sears Kenmore model 96 has the nomenclature plate number of 158.960, the manual says model 96. If you have a 158.960 or 158.961 or 158.962 or similar differences, they are the same model, just different packages or slight variations.
Sears website parts research area, shows the drawings of the various accessory sets, with the machine model numbers they went to. Often, the only difference in the model number, literally was the accessories & feet that the machine came with.
There seems to be a very long period of time where the Kenmore sewing machine models did not seem to change much- they didn't need to, they did everything that any other sewing machine did, and because the only real differences between the different "model" was which set of attachments & accessories were sold with them. The more you paid, the more stitch cams, attachments & accessories you got with your machine.
This is actually the monogrammer to the 1802, (it shows the full set of monogrammer cams, actually for Kenmore 158.1802, that someone would have had to purchase separately, including the tray the cams are in. This insert tray for cams, was specially made just for the monogrammer cams. Sears called them discs) this is not the set I currently have, I only have 18 letters in the set I kept for me. If you have the correct size of geared plate for your Kenmore sewing machine, and it has the same configuration as this monogrammer geared plate, it will work on your machine. However, I have come across 3 different sizes of these plates, some are deeper than others. The 95 and 96 use a slightly deeper geared plate for a monogrammer, as well as for the buttonholer.
Style C Kenmore cam stitch designs all 45
The huge variety of stitches includes straight stitches, of course, & a variety of stretch stitches, as well as utility stitches, including the blind hem stitch. A chainstitch is also possible, you just have to have the bobbin insert, and narrow plate, usually available on ebay, in the Sears Kenmore Sewing Machine (buttonholer/monogrammer/cam) attachment sets either the pale green stacking plastic cases, or the vinyl "books". The chainstitch pieces are usually in a small rectangular plastic case with a clear cover, about 1 1/2 inches by 3/4 of an inch or so. While the majority of the "top of the line" Sears Kenmore sewing machines were high shank sewing machines, you can use all of the same stitch design cams they use, you just need to look for low shank feet & attachments. For greater success when sewing stretch fabrics, use either the Kenmore Q stretch needles, or any brand of standard household 15x1 "ball tip" stretch needle.
CAM STITCHES AND STRETCH STITCHES NOT STITCHING CORRECTLY- If your stretch stitches, or decorative cam stitches are not stitching properly, even when you have the machine set correctly, your stitch regulator may be frozen with dried oil. It is a quick and easy fix, I have given more in depth details for Kenmore models, including videos, in this blog post - https://tumorfarmer.blogspot.com/2019/11/kenmore-reverse-stitch-regulator.html
Circular stitcher, allows you to stitch perfect circles, of various sizes, by attaching this metal attachment to the machine bed. It fits all Sears Kenmore vintage machines, because the screw for attaching the seam guide, is the same distance from the needle, on all Kenmore machines made by their manufacturers.
1652 (notice the changed nose plate, and engraved groove in bobbin hand hole cover plate)
Don't be scared off the great Sears Kenmore mechanical sewing machines, they are super easy to use, very inexpensive to buy & maintain, and are extremely smooth running, reliable sewing machines, and while they are NOT an industrial sewing machine, they are a very heavy duty sewing machine! Enjoy your 95 or 96!
Another oddity regarding Sears Kenmore Sewing Machines- while all of the repair people I have checked with have said that the model number of Sears Kenmore sewing machines is the first 2 to 4 numbers to the right of the decimals on the nomenclature plates, many of the manuals have another set of numbers entirely. There seems to be a very long period of time where the Kenmore sewing machine models did not seem to change much- they didn't need to, they did everything that any other sewing machine did, and because the only real differences between the different "models" were based on which set of attachments & accessories were sold with them. The more you paid, the more stitch cams, attachments & accessories you got with your machine. Model 1650 seems like it should be very different from model 95, but as you can see from their manuals, they are the same machine, with only a few tiny decorative differences, according to their manuals!
I used to prefer the Sears Kenmore models with built in cams, simply because they didn't require cams to sew special stitch designs. Now I prefer models which have some built in cams, but also accept more cams, because it means I can sew up to 45 different stitches with those machines, since I have purchased all of the Sears cams for the main 158 models, which some of us refer to as type "C" cams. There are several models with 7, 10, 12, or other numbers of utility & some decorative stitches, usually they say "Ultra" before the number of stitches. They usually have the dual belt system, with the motor inside the bottom of the machine, rather than off the back.
Yes, I forgot to answer the earlier question about how to get the machine off the zig zag stitch! Oops! Tabor8man, to change it from a zig zag stitch to a straight stitch, you can either turn the stitch width down to 0, and/or you can remove the cam under the door on top of the machine. It will only do a zig zag stitch if it has a zig zag cam in the machine, and has the stitch width turned up above 0.
The greatest advantage of these Japanese made heavy metal sewing machine treasures, is that they are extremely simple, mechanically! The ONLY reason you see posts from Bernina & other brand sewing machine repair technicians that claim the old metal Kenmores are only good for using as an anchor, is because the Kenmores almost NEVER break down, & if they do, you can easily fix them yourself if you can find the parts! That means that the technicians for the most expensive brand name sewing machines are not getting paid any money to fix or maintain your sewing machine, because it is so easy, you can do it yourself! The only all metal old Kenmore sewing machines that would be considered only good for boat anchors, were the ones made by New Process Gear, a division of Chrysler, in the U.S.A.. You can easily identify them by their manufacturer code on the metal nomenclature tag on the machine. 120 are the first 3 numbers before the decimal point. You can easily identify them, not only by the numbers, but you can see Chrysler design in their ugly shapes, they look like they are supposed to be an old automobile accessory, not a sewing machine. I have seen one of those early Sears Kenmore sewing machines completely repainted, with gorgeous red automotive paint, & WOW!!! Apparently it is a powerhouse machine, at least according to the person who totally repainted their New Process Gear Sears Kenmore sewing machine, so if you find one that works well, or just needs cleaned & oiled, maybe new wiring, give it a try! Freearm Kenmore portable machines do have 2 weaknesses to be aware of, but they do not affect sewing & stitching ability, at all. In order to make the freearm bobbin cover to snap shut again, a steel spring was built into the bottom of the freearm. It presses against the plastic bottom cover of the freearm, & over time, the plastic becomes brittle, & weakens, until the stronger steel is able to force the plastic to chip off, in the area where the hinge spring presses against it. To make the door stay closed, once this has happened, your best bet is to use a piece of tape, to hold the bobbin door closed. I usually fold the end of the tape over on itself, to make a fingerhold, so it is easy to open & reclose the bobbin door. Even if you super glue the broken off chip of plastic, back where it broke off, it will not stay in place with repeated opening & closing of the door. It is possible to simply remove the bobbin cover, instead, but that is up to the individual machine owner. The second weakness is the bobbin winders on some models have air bubbles in the pot metal used to mold these metal parts. The air bubbles weaken this area, & over years of temperature changes, & air pressure changes, these can literally crack on their own, and when someone touches it, it will break in 2 or 3 pieces. It does not require any force for it to break, when it gets to this point, so please don't blame it on someone you loan the machine to, or a technician who is oiling the machine. Pot metal is not high quality metal, it is one reason the old black Singer machines are so highly valued, they had much higher quality metal inside & out. People are rediscovering those incredible machines, for their strengths, too.
My favorite old metal Kenmore sewing machines were made by Jaguar/Maruzen in Japan mostly, but a few in Taiwan, their manufacturer identification code is 158, and the ones beginning with 148 were also made in Japan, by Soryu, & are high quality machines. To be perfectly honest, these old metal Kenmores are almost worth their weight in gold, to anyone who really sews a lot, & really are worth several hundred dollars, particularly if they have their manual & accessories!
The only reason many perfectly good sewing machines are sold for as low as $10, is because of the super cheap clothing available due to the unfair trade status caused by the Free Trade agreements made by foolish and/or dishonest, greedy politicians who literally gave away American jobs, by making laws that made it easier for wealthy American business owners to shut down their American factories, & re open them in Mexico, China, India, & other countries with super low wages, no worker protection laws, so the laborers can be abused, forced to work inhumane hours, & in dangerous labor conditions, and there are no laws in place to protect consumers from unsafe chemicals or other dangers in items made in countries with no consumer safety laws. If Americans & other wealthier countries still had to sew their own clothing, or pay others to make their clothing, the prices of these high quality used sewing machines would be at least $500, & if they have more special stitches & accessories, they would be around $1,500. While I wouldn't mind if someone gave me a new computerized sewing machine, and I would definitely try it out, I suspect that I would still prefer these great metal, mechanical Sears Kenmore Sewing Machines for most of my sewing! While I do love many of the European sewing machines made around the same time as these old Kenmores, the European sewing machines are much more complicated mechanically, making them more likely to need repairs done by a factory certified technician for the brand of the specific sewing machine. I do love the mechanical Bernina's with their special presser feet, tiny darning & embroidery hoop, accessory case, free arm & extension table, extremely informative manuals, & wonderful carry cases, as well as the Elna Supermatics with 100 or so different stitch cams available, well designed presser feet, accessory cases & incredible metal sewing case which fits around the freearm, making a large sewing table! OK, if you can't tell, I LOVE any good sewing machines, & the easier they are to sew with & maintain, the better I love them! Having well written sewing machine manuals with lots of photos, a broad range of stitches, accessories & attachments, as well as a well designed carry case, really does impact my decision when choosing which one to be my "one & only" sewing machine! I have more than 22 right now, so you can see I'm not doing very well in the choosing department! LOL! Becky in NC tumorfarmer
A wonderful individual, David Goboff, created a Kenmore sewing machine Model Chart which helps tell what each model can do, and what accessories originally came with them. Here is a link to his chart.
