Industrial Sewing tips for Home Sewing
Industrial Sewing has many tips & tricks, which can be beneficial to home sewers, to help you sew faster, better, with more professional results!
Cut out multiple patterns at the same time- This works best, if you sew several items the same size, from the same pattern. You must have a large flat surface to work on, preferrably a table, lay fabric out smoothly, without stretching it, or any wrinkles, making sure that any pattern pieces which are to be cut on the fold, are laid out, so that each layer of fabric, has the fold in the same location. This is much easier to do, with a rotary cutter & mat, or with an electric rotary cutter, or electric knife. It is more difficult if you have arthritis, or are using old, or dull scissors. I make the same muumuu dress pattern, usually cutting at least 3 dresses out at a time, of similar fabrics, to save time.
Rotary cutter & cutting mat, or an electric rotary cutter. Scissors or shears are too difficult to cut multiple layers of fabric at a time, and won't cut as accurately. Use pattern weights, or similar tools to help hold the layers neatly together, so they cut accurately.
Cutting with a 1/4 inch seam allowance, instead of a 5/8 seam allowance, that needs trimmed, later.
Nips- to mark matching points on pattern pieces, just use the tip of the scissors to nip 1/8 inch into the seam line, use a single nip for one diamond, 2 nips, for 2 diamonds. Also nip to mark center seams, and seam positions.
Tailor Tacks & marking- do all tailor tacks & marking, at one time, before starting to sew.
Press Interfacing before starting to sew- save time by pressing all interfacing before beginning to sew, so you don't have to get up & go iron. Also, try to set up an ironing board, or press, next to your sewing area, if possible, so you don't have to get up & down, every time you need to press a seam. Also, try to save seam pressing, until after you have sewn all seams which need pressed, so you can do all of your pressing at once.
Bundling- after cutting out your pattern pieces, stack them in the order they need to be sewn, and then bundle them together, with a rubber band, or scrap of fabric, to keep them in order, until you sew them. The pieces that are to be sewn first, should be on the top of the stack, the last ones, should be on the bottom of the stack.
Sew Without Pins- Learn to sew without pins, using correct positioning of your hands & the fabric pieces, matching up the points which need matched, hold them in your left hand, while feeding fabric with your right hand.
Chain stitching- Not with the chainstitch on a sewing machine, but by feeding the matched pattern pieces through the sewing machine, one after another, without taking time to cut the thread chains, in between pattern pieces.
Sew using the Flat Method- It is faster, & easier to sew using the flat method, than the "round" method, sew one shoulder seam, one side seam, sew the neckline on before closing the other shoulder seam. Basically, you keep the pattern pieces as flat as possible, only sewing the seams to turn them 3 dimensional, at the end of sewing.
Serger- if possible, serge seams, even home sergers sew faster than a standard lock stitch home sewing machine, but they also neatly trim, sew & finish the seam, in one step, instead of requiring multiple steps. Industrial sergers are much faster than a home serger, but most home sergers, are as fast as most home sewers can safely sew, and still get quality stitches.
For anyone wanting to sew super heavy fabrics, or tough fabrics, I highly recommend moving up to an industrial serger, with a servo or clutch motor, whether you want to sew fast, or slow, tougher fabrics require sturdier machines than the home sewing sergers. All sewing machines get knocked out of time, if they are forced to sew fabrics thicker, tougher, or to sew too fast, through too many layers, so keep that in mind if you want to sew lots of Sunbrella, or similar tough fabrics, switch to an industrial machine, that uses industrial needles. Industrial needles are much stronger than home sewing machines & home sergers use. Titanium coated needles are recommended for industrial machines high speeds, and for tough fabrics.
High Speed Sewing Machine- If you have a sewing machine that can sew at higher speeds, consider using it, if you can sew neatly, with control, at higher speeds. All sewing machines can only sew at high speeds, if they have been kept FULLY serviced, that means all old oil & lubricant has been removed, & fresh sewing machine oil and lubricant put in all of the locations necessary, for machines with dual pulley systems, like the Kenmore's, the pulley needs to be kept lubricated, and the belts fit properly, not too loose, or too tight.
Normal home sewing machines typically top out in the 1,000 stitches per minute range, these, days, but some vintage models sew as fast as 1,550 stitches a minute (Elna Supermatic vintage sewing machine), (Pfaff vintage sewing machines 130, 230, 260, 330, 360) , and if you move up to an industrial straight stitch sewing machine, you can sew in the 2,500 stitches a minute, or higher!
True industrial models usually use a separate, larger, higher speed motor, Servo motors, or clutch motors (which are attached under an industrial sewing table with a wood top, & steel legs), but some commercial, semi-industrial models sew in the 1,500 to 2,500 stitches a minute speed range. See my Singer 31-15 industrial lock stitch sewing machine, in it's industrial table, with the industrial clutch motor, & industrial bobbin winder mechanism, in the photo below.
Here are some of my favorite websites with information on industrial sewing-
https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/15-things-home-sewers-can-learn-from-industrial-sewing
One of my favorite sources for learning about industrial sewing, is Islander Sewing Systems, Janet Pray teaches classes on industrial sewing, and pattern making. It really saves time, when you learn to sew waistbands & zippers, the fastest, neatest way possible, without extra steps! There are many classes, including the "burrito technique", which combines several steps into one quick & easy method of sewing yokes! I have several of the Islander Sewing System, Galaxy of Sewing Techniques & Industrial Sewing Techniques, videos & DVD's, as well as the pants pattern making book, and highly recommend them!
http://stores.islandersewing.com/
Cut out multiple patterns at the same time- This works best, if you sew several items the same size, from the same pattern. You must have a large flat surface to work on, preferrably a table, lay fabric out smoothly, without stretching it, or any wrinkles, making sure that any pattern pieces which are to be cut on the fold, are laid out, so that each layer of fabric, has the fold in the same location. This is much easier to do, with a rotary cutter & mat, or with an electric rotary cutter, or electric knife. It is more difficult if you have arthritis, or are using old, or dull scissors. I make the same muumuu dress pattern, usually cutting at least 3 dresses out at a time, of similar fabrics, to save time.
Rotary cutter & cutting mat, or an electric rotary cutter. Scissors or shears are too difficult to cut multiple layers of fabric at a time, and won't cut as accurately. Use pattern weights, or similar tools to help hold the layers neatly together, so they cut accurately.
Cutting with a 1/4 inch seam allowance, instead of a 5/8 seam allowance, that needs trimmed, later.
Nips- to mark matching points on pattern pieces, just use the tip of the scissors to nip 1/8 inch into the seam line, use a single nip for one diamond, 2 nips, for 2 diamonds. Also nip to mark center seams, and seam positions.
Tailor Tacks & marking- do all tailor tacks & marking, at one time, before starting to sew.
Press Interfacing before starting to sew- save time by pressing all interfacing before beginning to sew, so you don't have to get up & go iron. Also, try to set up an ironing board, or press, next to your sewing area, if possible, so you don't have to get up & down, every time you need to press a seam. Also, try to save seam pressing, until after you have sewn all seams which need pressed, so you can do all of your pressing at once.
Bundling- after cutting out your pattern pieces, stack them in the order they need to be sewn, and then bundle them together, with a rubber band, or scrap of fabric, to keep them in order, until you sew them. The pieces that are to be sewn first, should be on the top of the stack, the last ones, should be on the bottom of the stack.
Sew Without Pins- Learn to sew without pins, using correct positioning of your hands & the fabric pieces, matching up the points which need matched, hold them in your left hand, while feeding fabric with your right hand.
Chain stitching- Not with the chainstitch on a sewing machine, but by feeding the matched pattern pieces through the sewing machine, one after another, without taking time to cut the thread chains, in between pattern pieces.
Sew using the Flat Method- It is faster, & easier to sew using the flat method, than the "round" method, sew one shoulder seam, one side seam, sew the neckline on before closing the other shoulder seam. Basically, you keep the pattern pieces as flat as possible, only sewing the seams to turn them 3 dimensional, at the end of sewing.
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| Babylock 838D |
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| Babylock 838D |
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| BabyLock Evolve is a 2,3,4,5,6,7,8 thread coverstitch, overlock, serger, sewing machine. It basically is 2 types of sergers, melded into one machine, but it can be set to do just one type of stitch at a time, or with as many additions as desired, up to the full 8 threads, which includes the 3 rows of coverstitch, with the single thread chainstitch underneath, and the 4 thread overlock stitch, all at the same time, in many variations, including flatlocking, rolled hemming, & much more. The coverstitch table allows you to use the same type of folders used in factories, to make all kinds of specialty sewing, from bias binding & piping, to much faster, & much more professional looking! |
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| Singer QuantumLock 4 with Differential Feed, is an excellent home serger, sews 2,3, & 4 thread overlock, flatlock, rolled hems, & trims, seams, & finishes the edges neatly, so they won't fray. The stitch sample sewn is a 3 thread overlock stitch. Most sergers so twice as fast as your normal home sewing machine, which also speeds things up, & you get the same finish found in commercially sewn clothing, sold in retail stores. I removed the freearm cover, so I could adjust stitch width more quickly. This serger has a convertible flatbed/ that turns quickly into a tiny freearm, which is super convenient, for cuffs, armholes, & sewing in the round. Differential Feed is a super important feature to make sergers more useful! |
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| Elna Supermatic sewing machine with accessories & extra stitch cams, can sew as fast as 1,550 stitches per minute |
Normal home sewing machines typically top out in the 1,000 stitches per minute range, these, days, but some vintage models sew as fast as 1,550 stitches a minute (Elna Supermatic vintage sewing machine), (Pfaff vintage sewing machines 130, 230, 260, 330, 360) , and if you move up to an industrial straight stitch sewing machine, you can sew in the 2,500 stitches a minute, or higher!
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| Singer 301A 1,100 stitches per minute, home sewing machine, straight stitch only, but can have a zigzagger or buttonholer attached, as well as a blind hemmer, & other attachments & accessories, to help it sew quickly. The green box includes many tools to speed up home sewing, including a ruffler, tucker, binder, rolled hemmer, shirring foot, a bias tape scissor guide, for cutting your own bias tape, and an edge stitcher, which helps attach a wide variety of ribbons, elastic, piping, lace, & antique French sewing techniques. Adjustable zipper foot, or 2 cording feet, a right one and a left one, are also available, to help make sewing faster, & easier, with more professional results. The manuals are extremely helpful, detailing not only maintenance & use of the sewing machine, but also how to use the accessories they come with. |
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| Sears Kenmore sewing machines from the 158. 1802 or 1803, & similar electronic pedal models, actually sew at very high speeds for home sewing machines, but ONLY if they have been properly cleaned & serviced, with all old oil removed, & fresh oil & lubricant used. The double pulley belt system must also be lubricated, or these will freeze up, like any old machinery, that the oil & lubricant is allowed to dry out. If freshly serviced, |
True industrial models usually use a separate, larger, higher speed motor, Servo motors, or clutch motors (which are attached under an industrial sewing table with a wood top, & steel legs), but some commercial, semi-industrial models sew in the 1,500 to 2,500 stitches a minute speed range. See my Singer 31-15 industrial lock stitch sewing machine, in it's industrial table, with the industrial clutch motor, & industrial bobbin winder mechanism, in the photo below.
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| My Singer 31-15 industrial sewing machine with clutch motor |
https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/15-things-home-sewers-can-learn-from-industrial-sewing
One of my favorite sources for learning about industrial sewing, is Islander Sewing Systems, Janet Pray teaches classes on industrial sewing, and pattern making. It really saves time, when you learn to sew waistbands & zippers, the fastest, neatest way possible, without extra steps! There are many classes, including the "burrito technique", which combines several steps into one quick & easy method of sewing yokes! I have several of the Islander Sewing System, Galaxy of Sewing Techniques & Industrial Sewing Techniques, videos & DVD's, as well as the pants pattern making book, and highly recommend them!
http://stores.islandersewing.com/
