What drives sewing machines?
Sewing Machine drive systems
Of the thousands of brands & models of sewing machines, there are a wide variety of different mechanical systems used, to transfer power from the motor, or power source, to the main driveline of the sewing machine, to make the needle go up & down. The energy source can run from hand driven, to pedal & treadle driven, electric, steam driven (in old factories),
While any of these drive systems can be broken, damaged, or worn out, and have that affect the speed and strength of the sewing machine, each system has it's positive points, and negative points. Some machines use 2 systems, one for transferring power from the motor to the machine's main components, another to synchronize the top of the machine, with the bottom of the machine.
Gear driven - Singer 101, 201-2, & other Singer potted motor machines, or worm gear driven from a motor under the machine bed, like the Singer 301, 400, & 500 series. Gears can be steel, or various types of "plastic", fiberglass, resin, or other materials, and can be helical gears, spiral gears, or other configurations. While some "plastic" gears are very hard & strong, and don't break easily, with the business idea of "built in obsolescence" as a key to keeping a company open for business, because parts break, and customers then have to go buy a new machine, or at least take their old one in for repairs, so they can be talked into trading the old machine for a new one, poor quality plastic gears became the norm, in most home sewing machines. Most people aren't aware that this started before the 1980's, and with some manufacturer's, the 1960's.
Singer 500 Rocketeer motor with spiral gear |
Notice the metal cleated belt on the top inside the right side of vintage Pfaff machine, with the upper embroidery mechanism removed. Note flat hard resin helical gear on back wall of machine. |
Belt driven
Leather treadle belt on Singer 127 Vibrating Shuttle sewing machine |
Be aware that the shape of your pulleys & make sure the belt you put on your machine is appropriate for the shape of the pulley grooves, for best transfer of power. Some belts, when cut on a cross section, are literally V shaped, and called a V belt, similar to those used in some cars, others are simply round, some are stretchy, some actually are a type of timing belt, and have teeth carved or shaped into them, to mate up with the gears in the top & bottom of the sewing machine, while others have kind of a zigzag shape, so they wrap more firmly against the pulleys, in the curves.
Friction pulley driven
Rubber friction pulley, works on a similar principle to the bobbin winding tire, but some friction pulleys feel more like a sanding or buffing bit, with something similar to sandstone pulley, or a metal texturized pulley, the methods & parts vary, by manufacturer. Old White & Kenmore machines manufactured by White, as well as National, often have friction pulleys, but my favorites are the Elna sewing machines, with the rubber friction pulleys. Just remember that a rubber friction pulley, if left pressed against the machine for too long, without use, will develop a flat spot, which will make it run harder, noisier, and not as smoothly.
Close up of motor pulley in Elna Supermatic |
Elna Supermatic note the cast aluminum handwheel, the rubber pulley rubs against the rim inside the handwheel, driving the machine. |
Chain driven- Early Kenmore's made by the automotive industry, have a chain driven system. I am not as familiar with this system, so feel free to share information, if you like, in comments! Because I have tumors in my spinal cord, & keep having to have back surgery, lifting heavy machines just isn't something I can do, so I have given away some machines, which I knew I wouldn't be able to get around to fixing up, so I gifted this machine to another sewing machine enthusiast.