NEEDLES for KNITS SERGERS and SEWING machines Ballpoint Jersey Knit Universal
Why do you need to choose the correct needles for your sewing projects? The quickest, simplest answer, is to avoid skipped stitches, stitch quality problems, and to avoid tearing holes in your knits, which only show up when you wear them, or wash them.
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HOLES caused by using sharp needles on a fine knit |
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SEAM SEWN WITH SAME SERGER & SETTINGS, BALLPOINT NEEDLES, NO HOLES |
The finer the threads or yarns, of the knit fabric, and the tighter the knit, the more important it is to use the smallest ballpoint needle size available for both your serger (or sewing machine), and your fabric. Too large of needles can tear holes, or just stretch fabric out, so it looks like it has holes, but the sharp needle tips actually cut the threads in the fabrics. Even universal needles can sometimes cause this issue.
If you are getting skipped stitches, you need a needle better suited to your fabric, and in extreme cases, especially with microfibers, you may need to use Thread Magic, or a similar thread and needle conditioner, which you dip your needle in, or run your thread through, it helps it pass through the fabric more smoothly, with less resistance, allowing stitches to form properly.
Spandex is another reason you may need to use the Thread Magic, or thread and needle conditioner. Many factories literally have a container of it attached to their sergers and sewing machines, so the thread runs through a container of liquid thread conditioner, it prevents static electricity in threads, as well as helping stitches form better, without as many "hiccups".
Vintage machines CAN sew knits, and even sew them well, but the right presser foot is essential, for each type of fabric, since some knits are spongey, or have nap, like velour velvet knits,a Kenmore Q foot works well, for many knits, it is available in low shank, high shank (rare), and super high shank.
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Kenmore low shank Q foot for knits and Qiana fabric |