Sewing ITY Knits information links and sources
Knits come in such a broad range of weights, thickness, and types, from singleknit, doubleknit, ITY, Ponte, rib knits, spongy knits, velour, or velvet knits, with a broad range from firm stability, to extreme softness, and 4 way, or 2 way stretch, that they really challenge you to learn what notions, tips, tricks, special needles, special presser feet, machine settings, and machines to choose, and whether to use a lockstitch sewing machine, or a serger.
In general, more stable knits, are easier to sew, while stretchy knits, especially super soft, thin 4 way stretch knits, and rib knits, can be a bear to sew, if you don't get tips on which needle tip type, and size to use, which presser foot to use, what machine settings to use, and any special notions, methods, and techniques to use.
Before I had a serger, I sewed all my knits on a regular sewing machine. I've sewn some knits with straight stitch, using the "taut sewing method" (only use this method on stretchy knits with good recovery), I've used zigzag stitches, on others, and once in a while, I tried the machine's built in stretch stitches, but usually went back to zigzag stitch, or multi stitch zigzag, for best results.
SEAM WIDTH
I sewed these test stitch samples right along the edge, of 2 layers of very lightweight 4 way stretch polyester fabric, to mimic a 1/4" seam, like most serged, store bought knit seams.
A narrow (1 or 2 mm) shorter zigzag stitch keeps your seam looking like a straight stitch seam, but builds in stretch, so seams don't break, when you move, or put them on and off.
I did not stabilize them, unless I stated what stabilizer was used, because I want to help people see that a zigzag sewing machine can sew knits, without expensive extras, though the stabilizers can make sewing stretchy knits, easier.
I DO recommend adding clear elastic in your shoulder seams, necklines, and in armholes of sleeveless tops and dresses, to prevent them stretching out of shape, over time. Stitch it without stretching, for best results.
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| Kenmore feet A, D, Q, with their stitch samples in front of them, and the same needle used to sew them. D worked as well as Q foot! (One skipped stitch) This 2 layers thin, 4 way stretch ITY 100% Polyester, super soft, THIN fabric! |
PLACEMENT ON FEED DOGS and GUIDING YOUR FABRIC
Laying your fabric correctly, on the feed dogs, and under the presser foot, makes a big difference in whether or not you get skipped stitches, straight, or curved seams. If using a left homing needle machine, try to get the outside edge of your seam placed close to the right edge of your needle opening, and keep that seam at a 90° to your cut fabric edge, to get an even seam.
Basically, you are going to guide your fabric, so your feed dogs can pull it as evenly as possible. Keep in mind, your seam line, and steer the seam line, along that little engraved (metal feet), or raised sight line, right in front of your needle.
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| Kenmore 1703 sewing machine, with Q foot, size 70/10 Schmetz 130/705H SES (ballpoint knit needle) on 100% polyester ITY interlock super soft, 4 way stretch super lightweight fabric, 2 layers, 3mm wide zigzag, 12 to 15 stitches per inch NO SKIPPED STITCHES COMPARING PRESSER FOOT A, D, and Q on ITY super soft, super stretchy knits |
As you watch videos of my sewing, please note that I am attempting to sew, and guide my fabric, with one hand, while holding my phone, in the other hand, which means I sometimes don't get the focus on the correct place, for a few seconds, so sorry about that. I do recommend steering your fabric with both hands, for best results. How you control the layers, as you steer them under the needle, makes a HUGE difference, in how successful your sewing projects turn out.
Kenmore model 90 sewing stretch knit velour velvet with roller foot, and size 14 ballpoint jersey needle.
KENMORE 1803 SEWING KNITS with regular zigzag metal A presser foot, low presser foot pressure, Schmetz needle size 60/8 type universal
15x1H which is the same as 130/705H
The knit needles are listed below
(round tip) knit SUK
Jersey SES
Super Stretch SP
(ballpoint or jersey)
Here is a link to the Schmetz needle site on sewing knits, and stretch knits
The newest, softest, stretchiest fine knits, are some of the most difficult to sew, due to those fine characteristics, because the fabric wants to stick to the needle, and stretches down into the zigzag needleplate opening, often causing jams, sometimes even causing damage to the fabric, especially if it gets caught on the sharp bobbin hook point.
Don't be scared away from trying these fabulous new fabrics, just take time to research the best tools and methods to use, then take the time to practice sewing them, using your fabric scraps, to test sew, and adjust your settings, needle tip type, and size, whether or not to use stabilizer, or seam tape, paper strips, or other methods, to get the best outcome.
There are many excellent video tutorials, online, that you can watch, free, but also consider purchasing good sewing books, written by sewing experts, like Nancy Zieman, or the Singer Sewing Reference Library, with titles like "Sewing Activewear" , " Sewing With Knits", " Sewing For Kids", " Sewing With an Overlock", and many other excellent books with step by step photos, and information to help you get started!
Look for other books with "knits" in the title, and " stretch fabrics", you will find many excellent sources of expert information, to make your experience sewing knits, easier, faster, with more professional results.
NEEDLES
Needles are the most important tool, in sewing knits without skipped stitches, and without damaging your fabric. You need to know what needle system your sewing machine requires, and need to match needle size, and needle tip type, to your fabric. These are the biggest keys to sewing success, especially with fine, or super stretchy knits.
Universal needles have a modified rounded tip, which works with most wovens, and some knits, but if sewing knits, and you get skipped stitches, using Universal needles, then use the same needle system, but with SES or SUK, or SP after the needle system designation, on the pack of needles.
The first set of numbers and letters on your needle pack, are your machine's needle system required, 130/705 H (European) is your standard home sewing machine needle system, but it can also be labelled system 130, or 15x1 (USA). The needle system designation is for the needle length, thickness, and needle design (whether for home or industrial, sewing machine, serger, or coverstitch machine, some have no scarf, for specific sergers) but the letters after the needle system, describe the tip of the needle, for special fabrics.
Sharp needle tips are for woven fabric, but they can cut threads in knits, which causes holes, and runs in knit fabrics. To prevent this, light ball point SES and medium ballpoint SUK for jersey, and SP super stretch needle tips were developed, to slip between the threads, and work on fussy knits like Lycra and Spandex, to avoid skipped stitches.
You need to use the SMALLEST NEEDLE SIZE, that your machine can use, that has enough room in the needle grooves, for the size of thread you are using. I have clear down to size 6 needles for my industrial Sundia Serger, which is perfect for thin tshirt jersey, and ITY knits. If you get skipped stitches, try the next needle size down, if that isn't enough, try adjusting presser foot pressure, up, or down.
Most knits sew best, with BALLPOINT (SES), or JERSEY NEEDLE TIPS (SUK), or SUPER STRETCH (SP), which can slip between the needle fibers, so it does not damage your fabric. Using a sharp needletip, and even a universal tip, can cut the threads in your fabric, causing runs, or holes, everywhere the needle went through.
Some specialty knit needles use a nonstick finish on the eye, and tip, of the needle. If you need this, you may try dipping your needle in Thread Magic, Thread Heaven, Liquid Silicone, Sewer's Aid, or Thread and Needle Lubrican, which can also help avoid skipped stitches.
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| Tshirt jersey sewn with size 6 ballpoint needles |
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| Tshirt jersey sewn with the same size 6, but with a sharp needle tip (can happen with some universal needles, too) needle, on the same serger, with the same settings, and same thread, as the nice stitch sample, that sewed perfectly, with ballpoint jersey needles. |
PRESSER FEET
In some cases, you will have to break down, and use either a roller foot, or a walking foot, with very difficult stretch knits, or spongy knits. You literally need to TEST SEW using scraps of your project fabric, BEFORE SEWING YOUR PROJECT!
Sears came out with a SPECIAL Q FOOT, for sewing knits, and sold special ballpoint Q needles, with them, to help home sewers sew knits successfully.
The Q foot is a clear zigzag presser foot, with a shallow tunnel, similar to a satin stitch presser foot, which helps allow the knit fabric to feed better, without sticking to the feed dogs, or the bottom of the presser foot.
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| Kenmore A foot, then D foot, and Q foot, they are tipped back, to show very shallow tunnel, which helps knits feed better |
Q needles ARE NOT NECESSARY, as long as you use the correct BALLPOINT or JERSEY needles, in the correct needle system, for your machine, and the correct needle size, for your fabric, and thread. Q needles have a ballpoint tip, the main issue essential to sewing knits.
THREAD AND NEEDLE CONDITIONER
Be aware, that some needle manufacturers also add a special coating to their needle tips, and needle eyes, which help prevent fabrics, Spandex, Lycra, and threads, from sticking, which helps prevent skipped stitches, as well. You can treat your needle tips to a dip in Thread Magic, Thread Heaven, or a liquid thread and needle conditioner, like silicone, Sewer's Aid, to make your needles nonstick.
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| Left to right Kenmore presser feet with 2 layers ITY 100% polyester stitch samples sewn with the same Schmetz 70 130/705H SES needle, in this Kenmore 1703, with zigzag needleplate, zigzag stitch 3mm stitch width, 12 stitches per inch stitch length Presser foot A did skip some stitches Presser foot D sewed almost perfect, only skipped 1 stitch, Q FOOT sewed perfectly, NO SKIPPED STITCHES!! |
In some cases, a teflon foot may be necessary, if you are sewing an especially sticky knit.
PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE ADJUSTMENTS
Lowering, or otherwise adjusting the presser foot pressure, is often helpful, when sewing knits, because the stretch in knits, tends to make the fabric cling to the feed dog teeth. This is why some of Singer's luxury Touch & Sew Sewing machines had soft rubber feed dogs, instead of the usual metal feed dog teeth. Some sewing machines also offered variable feed dog height, to assist in better fabric feeding, while most just offer the presser foot pressure adjustment.
Strangely enough, you may be able to sew some knits, even a spandex rich rib knit, with the standard metal zigzag foot, just by lowering the presser foot pressure, sewing a narrow 2 or 3 mm zigzag stitch, using 12 to 15 stitches per inch, stitch length. The key, is being WILLING TO TEST SEW, AND MAKE ADJUSTMENTS, until you find what works for your particular fabric, thread, needle, presser foot, and sewing machine!
Because knit stick to the feed dogs, and presser foot, stretching, it affects their ability to feed correctly. Using very LOW pressure ( possibly the lowest pressure available on your machine) gives the best results, when sewing stretchy, or spongy knits. This gives them room to feed, without being stretched out of shape.
I was impressed to see that just lowering presser foot pressure, and using the smallest, universal needle (8 or 10), gave EXCELLENT stitch formation, with no skipped stitches, no fabric distortion, even on luxuriously soft, ribbed knits, and Spandex, even with the STANDARD METAL PRESSER FOOT!
STITCH TYPES
If you only have a basic home sewing machine, you can sew some knits, using a standard straight stitch, by using the " taut sewing " method, where you gently stretch the fabric, behind, and in front of, the presser foot, while sewing, and then sewing a second line of stitches 1/16" in the seam allowance, so you have a backup line of stitches, if any stitches pop.
Zigzag stitch is the best lockstitch sewing machine stitch to use, when sewing knits, because it gives extra thread in your seams, to avoid popping threads, and seams, when your fabric stretches, during wear. A narrow, 2 or 3 mm zigzag stitch, provides a straight, strong, but stretchy seam. Too wide of a zigzag stitch, can cause tucks, or puckers, so adjust zigzag stitch width, to whatever gives you the best stretchy seam, without popping any threads, when you stretch those seams.
I do NOT recommend using most of the "stretch stitches", two stitches forward, one stitch back, repeatedly, on knit fabrics, because they are nearly impossible to pick out, without ruining your fabric. If you make mistakes, or don't fit your project, before sewing, stretch stitches can ruin it, turning you off sewing, completely.
If you want to experiment with stretch stitches, do it on scraps, and if it sews well on your project's fabric scraps, it may work for seams on your project, just remember, you are taking a big risk, using these stitches, especially if you make a lot of mistakes, in your sewing.
STABILIZERS & SEAM TAPE
Strong, stable knits can be easy to sew, without any stabilizers, or seam tape, but most stretchy, soft, knits, especially thin knits, will be much easier to sew, if you use a stabilizer, or seam tape.
Sometimes, a doublesided basting tape, can make sewing these difficult soft, stretchy fabrics, much easier! If you don't have wash away, tear away stabilizer, or seam tape, you can use strips of paper, between your fabric and the presser foot, or between the fabric, and the feed dogs, to sew, without fabric getting pushed into the needleplate opening. Gently tear the paper along the needle perforations, to remove it, once your seam is sewn.
Tear away, wash away stabilizers, are available, to make sewing lightweight fabrics, easier, not just for embroidery, but for many sewing tasks, where lightweight fabric is too soft to sew well, which applies to some knits, as well.
Spray starch, then gentle pressing, stabilizes (firms up) soft knit fabrics, making them easier to sew, without skipped stitches. (Use a press cloth, and of course, use the correct iron temperature for your fabric type, some synthetics like most nylon fabrics, should not be ironed, they melt easily, this includes nylon thread, unless it is the new heat resistant nylon thread.)
TWIN NEEDLE FAUX COVERSTITCH HEM
Twin needles can be used to fake a coverstitch hem, on zigzag sewing machines with front facing bobbin systems. To prevent tunneling, loosen the upper tension (keep track of what your normal tension setting is, for regular sewing), you get two parallel rows of straight stitches on top, and the bobbin thread creates a zigzag stitch on the bottom. Be sure to use a knit twin needle, for best results.
BASTING TAPE, STITCH WITCHERY, & WASHABLE GLUESTICK
If you have never used double sided basting tape, Iron On knit Double sided hem tape, Stitch Witchery, or washable gluestick, and similar notions, in sewing, these notions can make difficult sewing faster, and easier, with less chance of puckers, especially knit hemlines, and necklines!
Use the adhesive of your choice, to hold fabric in place, without pins, while you sew! The washable ones dissolve in water, the first time you launder them, the iron on ones are permanent adhesives, which will permanently fuse your fabrics together. You can see some of these on the PBS Show available to watch free, online, "Sewing With Nancy", "Sewing Knits With Confidence" episode 1 & 2. I have a link to the first video, at the bottom of this blog post.
Judy Kessinger's "Fit Nice" YouTube videos, are another excellent source of information on using washable gluestick, and Steam a Seam, to make your sewing easier. The next 2 links are to Judy's videos-
"Sewing With Nancy | Sew Knits With Confidence - Part 1 | Season 2600 | Episode 2624 | PBS"
SEW KNITS WITH CONFIDENCE PART 1 Sewing With Nancy
You may need to go to the PBS website, to watch Part 2 of Sew Knits With Confidence.
