INDUSTRIAL SERGERS
Industrial sergers are not always as easily changed from one stitch to another, as the typical home serger, but that varies by brand, and the age of the machine, as well as when it was manufactured, and by which company. Home sewing machines typically have the capability of sewing a wide variety of stitches, & applications, while industrial machines, were most often designed specific to one, or a few tasks, and were set up in the factory, to sew 1 specific task, by a sewing machine mechanic, a company engineer, or a sewing expert, who managed, or supervised the manufacturing of sewn products.
Some brands & models of industrial machines, were developed where changing out feed dogs, needle plates, loopers, and tension units, could change a machine from one stitch capability, to other stitch capabilities, if you had the parts, the manual, and the tools & expertise.
Because this does take technical skill, sewing machine mechanics are highly valued, especially if the factory isn't big enough to have an on site mechanical engineer, and tool room, with experts who could make the specialty presser feet, and attachments, folders, and other necessary equipment, to help manufacture sewn products faster, at high quality, with the least amount of manpower necessary.
KNOW YOUR STITCHES
Before you buy a serger, you need to know you are buying the correct type of serger, for your specific purpose, or you could wind up with a machine that is of no use to you. Some sergers sew with only 2 threads, or 3 threads, while others sew with 4 threads, 5 threads, or MORE! Industrial machines have been manufactured for all kinds of special tasks, so whether you just want a 2 or 3 thread overlock, or Merrow stitch, for the edge of fabric, or you want a tough, strong 4 or 5 thread safety stitch, that doesn't stretch, of you want to sew swimsuits, or similar super stretchy fabrics, it is ESSENTIAL that you choose the correct type of serger for the specific tasks you expect of that machine.
Without giving a college industrial sewing course-
2 or 3 thread overlock, or Merrow stitches, are used to edge badges, edge blankets, finish fabrics to prevent fraying (on some woven clothing, some edges are overlocked before the seam is sewn, especially if shape is introduced into the seam), flatlock seams, roll hems on lightweight fabrics, sew some swimwear, and athletic wear.
4 thread overlock is a more stable, somewhat heavier sewing applications, where you want the seam to be strong, supportive, where the fabric has enough strength and body, that it isn't dragged down by the extra thread. Most clothing seams that are sewn in one pass, are 4 thread overlocks, although the flat seamers, and interlock stitch (coverstitch to most home sewers), are rapidly taking over in sportswear, especially in knits, like ladies leggings, and sweats, athletic wear.
4 & 5 thread SAFETY STITCH are a double chainstitch, which looks like a straight stitch on top, and a chainstitch on the bottom, are a millimeter or 2 from a 2 or 3 thread overlock stitch. This is often used in sewing denim, and heavy duty sewing applications, heavier fabrics, equipment, upholstery, sewn equipment.
DIFFERENTIAL FEED
Not all sergers have differential feed. Differential feed is used to gather fabric, or stretch fabric, or help both layers of fabric to feed more evenly. Basically, the feed dogs, under the needleplate, which move the fabric, are 2 parts, instead of 1 solid feed dog, so that you can feed the fabric in faster at the front, than it feeds out the back (+ to gather), or feeds out the back faster, than it feeds in the front (- to stretch, like for lettuce leaf edged rolled hems). ALWAYS CHECK BEFORE BUYING, if you want an industrial serger with differential feed. If you are buying a used model, make sure the differential feed is still functional, not frozen, unless you are willing to either pay to have it fixed, or willing to do the repairs yourself. Knit and stretch fabrics are where most differential feed is used, or if you want to do a lot of gathering, while serging. Ruffling and shirring can be inexpensively, quickly done with a standard industrial lock stitch machine, however, so it may be the most profitable way to gather.
Industrial sergers that do have differential feed, aren't as easy to adjust, as most home sergers are, so instead of just raising or lowering a lever, you often have to undo a screw, in order to raise or lower the feed rate, and sometimes, you may need to adjust a couple of screws, and a lever.
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| Sundia 5 thread safety stitch serger is installed in a 2 layer industrial table, with clutch motor, 3 pedals (pedals can be added to industrial tables, to operate thread cutters, run the machine, raise and lower the presser foot, or other mechanical tasks, hands free, the waste chute captures the trimmed fabric and threads, and usually feeds into a garbage can, or bag, so it doesn't require extra motions on the part of the machine operator |
TENSION
If you want to sew with an industrial sewing machine, you do need to learn to adjust the tensions, because industrial machines do NOT have calibrated (numbered, measured) tension units, so you can't just set each tension to a specific number, and expect it will magically sew the stitch you want.
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| This industrial replacement tension unit has numbers on it, but the knob turns more than one revolution, so it is not technically a "calibrated", or measured tension amount. Industrial sewing machines use heavier springs in their tension units, and tighter tensions than home sewing machines, and sew at MUCH higher speeds, so keeping thread feeding at an exact tension, to avoid stitch "hiccups", is essential |
LIGHT
If your industrial sewing machine or serger does not come with an adjustable light attached to the industrial table, I highly recommend you purchase an adjustable light setup. There are a wide variety of sewing lights available, from the type you attach to the table itself, to the small, inexpensive LED lights that are magnetic, that you can stick on the body of the metal machine, and aim the light wherever you want it. You NEED to be able to see what you are sewing on, so definitely invest in a light that you can adjust to where you need it.
Worst case scenario, use an adjustable student lamp, that sets on your table, and can be adjusted where you want it. Some even have little holders at the base of the lamp, for pens, and notes, which is a handy place you can use to store your tools.
THREAD TOWERS & THREAD-
Industrial machines will only sew well, if you use the correct type of thread and thread towers. Industrial thread towers are inexpensive, but make all the difference in whether you get high quality stitches. Thread towers typically range from 3 to 6 cone holders, and most can be adjusted somewhat, unless they are an old welded tower. The thread needs to go straight up from the cone, to a threading eyelet above it, or it won't feed off the cone properly, and can cause drag on your thread tension, affecting stitch quality.
Yamata 4 thread Interlock (Coverstitch) with 5 thread thread stand set up notice the thread eyelets in the cross bars don't all have the ceramic or plastic eyelet liner, only the ones that I am using do. Most industrial thread stands are convertible, to hold from 2 to 6 cones of thread
Cone thread is best, and you need to use high quality threads. Poor quality thread will not only cause headaches in sewing, because any slubs affect your tension, but poor quality thread also breaks more easily (broken thread on an industrial serger can cost you a LOT in missed profit, because it can take so long to rethread). Poor thread quality will also show in your end product. You want happy customers, use quality thread when sewing their products.
THREADING-
BENT TWEEZERS ARE ESSENTIAL THREADING TOOLS
NEEDLE THREADERS ARE CHEAPER BY THE PACK
HEADLIGHT MAKES THREADING EASIER
LIGHTED MAGNIFYING GLASSES MAY BE HELPFUL
ORTHODONTIA FLOSS THREADERS FOR LOOPER THREADING
Be prepared to learn to thread your industrial sewing machine correctly, or they will not perform the way you need them to. Invest in a pair of bent tweezers, and a small batch of ORTHODONTIA FLOSS THREADERS for braces, to help those with braces on their teeth, to floss. These wonderful, inexpensive blue plastic loops, are excellent for helping squeeze threads through the tiny eyelets on industrial sergers and sewing machines, ESPECIALLY WHEN THREADING THE LOWER LOOPER. Many used industrial sergers do not come with ANY tools, not even the lower looper threading tool. So far, I've been able to use a dental floss threader, and bent tweezers, to thread all of the industrial sergers I've owned. Industrial machines are not designed to be threaded quickly, they are designed to stay threaded, so you won't find slits in the eyelets, to make threading fast. That is because those same slits can shred your thread, and cause all kinds of problems, due to the high speeds industrial machines sew at.
Learn the tie on method of thread changing- it doesn't work in all situations, or all machines, but is the fastest method to change threads, without having to totally rethread the entire machine. Literally, you snip the threads above the thread cone, place the new cone of thread on the thread stand, tie the old thread end that is still in the machine, to the new cone of thread. Do this for all threads needing changed, raise the presser foot (usually this releases the tension), then pull your threads through the machine, carefully. The looper threads can usually be pulled through the eye of the looper, without having to cut the knot off. NEVER try to pull the knot through the eye of the needles! Cut the knot off, and thread the needle as usual.
Do check your manual, if you have one, for different sewing applications, some sergers and sewing machines are supposed to have the thread wrapped around a round metal rod, once, twice, even three times, depending on what you are sewing. The extra eyelets provide extra strong thread control, for more consistent stitches. If you decide to skip those extra steps, don't be surprised if you have tension issues, and poor stitch quality.
This next video is a tutorial I made for the buyer of my Rimoldi 3 thread serger, to help her remember how to use her new machine. I had to figure everything out on my own, and search the web, after my hubby bought it, and brought it home to me, and you can tell I forget my words, and say the wrong words, when making videos, but to see a tiny overview of an industrial serger, you can click on the video, and make it fill your screen, to see it better.
Sorry it isn't brighter, I had an old cell phone, when I made the video, and was lucky it came out this well, having been made several years ago.
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| Some threading charts are easy to find on the internet |
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| 3 thread overlock stitches sewn with the Rimoldi 3 thread serger, prior to sale |
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| Notice the thread wraps around the metal pieces through the holes, and that there is a liner in some of the thread holes, to help prevent your thread from catching on the metal. You can purchase these separately, and install them in your thread stands, to help protect your thread from breakage |
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| Rimoldi 527 lower section shows threading for loopers |
MANUALS
Be aware, manuals are NOT always available for industrial machines, and even when they are, they are not written to teach anyone how to sew, and are typically full of technical machine information, instructions on how to install the machine in an industrial table, and not much else. If accessories were available, a separate section usually had that information, often in list form, occasionally with illustrations, but typically, when you buy an industrial sewing machine, you are expected to know what it is, how to set it up, how to use it, and how to maintain it.
OILING YOUR MACHINE
It is important to make sure you purchase the proper oil for your industrial sewing machines, they sew at high speeds, and many have a built in OIL FILTER and PUMP, & the oil is fed through the serger constantly, as it is running, helping it remain cool, so it doesn't seize up. Just like a car motor, if you don't oil your industrial serger (or sewing machine), the machine itself, will eventually overheat, locking up, melting parts of it into a block of solid metal, instead of a metal machine, with moving parts.
While the inner portion of most industrial sewing machines and sergers have the built in pump, there are often areas of the machine where you must oil, before every 8 hours of sewing, or as often as the manual, and/or machine warranty require. This often includes the outer moving parts, like the pivot points of the loopers, on the front of the serger, hiding behind the front door. There is also a side "door" on most industrial sergers, especially 5 thread sergers, which may need other points oiled.
WICKS- If you think a piece of thread, or felt is stuck in your machine, DO NOT PULL IT OUT! Some areas of many sewing machines and sergers have a wick, or wicks, which are intended to wick oil to specific areas of the machine. Over time, as these wicks age, they may begin to deteriorate, so you may need to replace the wicking, in some vintage machines, but unless you WILL REPLACE it, don't pull it out! Be aware, if the oil in it has solidified, it may not wick anymore, so if it is supposed to wick OIL, and the lubricant in it has solidified, you will need to replace it.
Industrial sewing machine oil, usually Lily White, is a liquid paraffin, is non staining, so even if some gets on your sewn product, you should be able to get it out, and not have stains. Typically, it must be ordered by the gallon, from an industrial sewing supply company. These can be ordered online, at least in 2021, in the U.S.A., it can.
Some machines require other special oil, so if your machine specifies a specific weight, or type of oil, you may need to do some research to find a source. Many vintage machines called for their company's special oil, but most of those companies are now defunct, so you will need to find alternate sources, for similar weights and types of oils and/or lubricants.
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| Rimoldi 3 thread industrial serger sewing machine has clutch motor, 2 pedal system, one raises & lowers the presser foot |
NEEDLES
By the way, because industrial sewing machines do sew at such high speeds, they also require special needles, often coated with titanium, to keep the needle from bending and breaking, from the metal softening, from the high speed friction, of the needle & thread, as they pass through the fabric multiple times. You need to know your machine's needle SYSTEM, which is the size, and configuration of your needle, you will need to know what fabrics you intend to sew, and choose the correct needle TIPS and SIZES, and you will need to have extras in every size available, on hand, if you intend to make money at sewing.
Knits require ballpoint needles
Wovens require sharp needles
SPECIALTY tips are available for sewing leather, vinyl, embroidery, topstitching (larger eye hole, for larger threads), metallic threads (special size and lubricant in eye), and many other details, so be prepared to do your research, and choose the correct needles. High quality needles DO make a difference in whether your machine sews well.
REMEMBER TO CHANGE NEEDLES! Don't wait until they are broken, they will damage your products. The length of time a needle should be used, will vary, based on the type of needle it is, the type of product you are sewing, and even the type of thread you use. Over time, synthetic threads actually can abrade metal, including the tension plates, and needles, so changing those, and/or polishing your tension plates smooth, again, is sometimes necessary.
USED INDUSTRIAL MACHINES
Collier Equipment New and Used Industrial Sewing Equipment
Sewing Machines Plus
Over the most recent years, as Etsy, & other craft selling internet companies have flourished, & Facebook & Yahoo groups popped up, & members began sharing information about these vintage machines, including manuals, accessories, repairs, & troubleshooting, these vintage machines are beginning to become a little more valuable again, as people of all ages, look for a way to "create" & fabricate items from sports equipment & clothing, to storage containers, tents, boat & lawn mower, or BBQ grill covers, awnings, umbrellas, luggage, and purses, bags, & cases of all kinds, and are putting these fantastic old machines back to work being productive again!
Because most of the sewing & textile manufacturers closed their U.S. factories, & offices, even, there hasn't been much in the way of financial support, for museums of the textile & sewing industries, & an enormous amount of information has been lost, because the factory workers, & machine mechanics, have retired, and are rapidly dying off, taking their decades of skills, technology, troubleshooting ideas, & skill development, with them.
We have a chance to change that now, and a few fabulous groups of people are trying to begin remedying this, including Wayne Binger, of Tulsa, Oklahoma, who has opened the Vintage Sewing Center & Museum, in a large former residence, filling it with everything from home sewing machines to industrial sewing machines, and is introducing sewing to people of all ages, including school children, and visitors are not only able to look at machines, they actually get to SEW on the sewing machines! I highly recommend a trip to Tulsa, Oklahoma, to visit Wk Binger at his wonderful Vintage Sewing Center & Museum, Inc.!
To learn more, here is the Facebook page where members share information about their visits, & Wayne keeps us updated on the progress of the museum!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/407787369596207/
