Kenmore 1813 Sewing Machine

Kenmore model 1813 by Maruzen

The Sears Kenmore model 1813 is very similar to the 1603, 1703, and 1803, mechanically, the same basic metal construction (except for plastic knobs, decor panels, side panel) but uses a different clutch system, so there is no clutch button, and it does have the plastic  belt pulley at the handwheel, so DO NOT USE HEAT anywhere near here!

UPDATE -I only learned the belt pulley by the handwheel, on this model was plastic 10/20/2023, thanks to Joe Winchester, in one of the Vintage Kenmore groups on Facebook, discovered a brown plastic pulley on his 158.18033, and asked us to check ours. I found plastic pulleys on this 158.18130, one 158.18033, and one 158.17033, but other versions of these same models, both 17033, and 18033, which I worked on, had aluminum/metal pulleys.

I haven't got a copy of the 1813 catalog advertisement, yet, but I did pull copies of the Searsparts.com diagrams of the accessories and cams for it, and it is a luxury model, but not the very top luxury model, so it came with 30 extra C cams, and a flat buttonholer and chainstitch accessories, Q foot set for knits, and extra presser feet, in one of the gey and cream vinyl "books", so it came with 2 of the grey vinyl books.

158.18130 cams and pedal

158.18130 accessory kit

Sewing stitch samples, after freeing up completely frozen machine. 

1813 sewing with C cams, stitch samples using cams for the model 1980.

 I did use the model 1980 C cams to test the cam features. This is not the exact set the 1813 would have come with.

TIP- The 3 layer C cams with magnets, were only for the 1941 and 1980, if I remember right- the other models had C cams which sewed the same designs as the 80-85 cams, but were numbered differently, cams 30/80 fish, 31/81 flower in pot, 32/82, duck/swan, 34/86 pine tree,  44/84 bird, 45/85 angel fish . The purpose of the magnets was to allow you to sew only one cycle, or revolution, of these picture designs, like for a polo shirt, or child's shirt or dress.

To wind a bobbin, without the needle going up and down, you just pull the hand wheel out, to the right. When finished winding the bobbin, push the handwheel in.

The 1813 does take Kenmore type C cams, but also has the 12 most common stitches built in, which is very convenient.

Super fast, convenient threading!

1.2 amp motor

Dual belt system

12 built in stitches- 

Straight stitch

Straight stretch stitch

Zigzag

RickRack

Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch

Overedge Stretch

Blind hem 

Elastic Stretch

Turkish Hem 

Box stitch

Multi stitch zigzag

Smocking stitch

Chainstitch with adapters

C cams

Q foot knit kit (original accessories)

Flat plastic buttonholer & cams

Twin needle capable

Reversible zigzag to straight stitch needleplate

Class 15 bobbin system

Electronic speed control pedal makes the needle punch through fabric with the same strength, regardless of the speed

1813 CAN USE THE SAME BUTTONHOLER AND MONOGRAMMER AS 1603, 1703, 1803!!

The bobbin cover plate has been removed, and placed on the machine bed, to allow the removal of the bobbin, but also to show the zigzag and straight stitch needleplate insert, which can be reversed, when sewing silk, satin, or similar soft fabrics, which may get pushed down into the wider needle opening, if the zigzag plate is used. Always use straight stitch,, when using the straight stitch opening.
Stitch samples showing the built in stitches, as well as several examples of C cam stitches

Class 15 bobbin and bobbin case

Bobbin hook area also notice the lever on the right, which activates the buttonholer, or monogrammer gears, for those who have the accessories with their machine.

Stitch length control knob on top, with stitch modifier for stretch stitch settings S short, M medium, L long, which controls the amount of reverse in your stretch stitches. Turning to the red dot, is the straight stitch forward setting

Lower knob is Stitch Width dial, with stitch selector on the inside of the dial

Like most machines I get, the 1813 was frozen completely, the handwheel could not be turned. Using my normal routine of cleaning out old oil, using Qtips, a paint brush, or toothbrush, dipped in rubbing alcohol, or deoderized kerosene, then oiling with either TriFlow oil, I was able to free it up, and get it working like new!

The first thing I usually do, is open the faceplate, and pop off the top of the machine, so I can start to clean and oil the zigzag mechanism, and the top of the machine.

To access the side with the belts, remove the 2 small black screws that hold the top of the side panel in place, above the handwheel.

Yellow arrow show the 2 screws to remove, then the side panel lays away from the side of the machine, and lift, to remove side panel.

Clip springs may make a snapping noise, as you pull it free.

Now, I have free access to clean and oil the mechanical parts that were frozen from dry oil.

The stitch selector would not stop on the stitches, due to the pivoting lever inside, being gummed up, at the pivot point. This prevents the lever from rolling the bearing, at the end of the lever, down into the divots, to choose the specific stitches.

Stitch selector lever inside, is gummed up, at the pivot, so the end with the roller bearing, which is supposed to ride up and down, over the stitch selector dial hills and valleys (divots), inside the back of the machine, is unable to pivot enough to go down in the valleys, which actually control which stitch you have chosen. Cleaning the pivot point, with a rare shot or two of WD40, followed immediately with TriFlow oil, while the machine is on the back, then brush the pivot point with a toothbrush dipped in rubbing alcohol, frees this up quickly. Blot up any excess fluids, then oil with one drop of TriFlow oil, or sewing machine oil, on both sides of the pivot point.

Notice the roller has now been able to roll down into the valley, or divot, to select the stitches.

Freeing up 1813 stitch selector mechanism.

Another video showing where, and how to clean stitch selector lever pivot point.

1813 more video showing how stitch selector works, and reverse stitch length mechanisms, hiw they should move.

Cam door and bobbin winder

Cam door open, push camstack release lever, to insert and remove cams. Notice pin on bed of camstack. There are holes in the cams, to help you install cams correctly.  If you don't insert the cam all the way until it sits flat, on the camstack, your machine will only sew backwards, because the top cam followers controls reverse, and the bottom cam follower controls the forward and zigzag motions.