Kenmore serger model 16631 and 16641
I finally have had the opportunity to work on, and sew with a couple of Kenmore sergers manufactured by Janome. Models 16631 and 16641 Online, people kept saying they had plastic gears, but neither of the sergers I worked on, for this post, had any plastic mechanical parts, only the plastic outer shell. These Janome made Kenmore sergers have ALL METAL MECHANICAL PARTS!
3/4 thread sergers
4 thread overlock
3 thread overlock
3 thread flatlock
3 thread blind hem
3 thread rolled hem
Differential feed with easy access knob above the handwheel
Stitch length knob on right side
Easy color coded threading
Accessories in box which stores in the
Scrap catcher (removable)
These Kenmores sergers by Janome are very heavy, for what looks on the outside, like a "plastic" machine! It is because all their inner mechanisms, and frame, are all metal.
I WILL BE ADDING VIDEOS AFTER I UPLOAD THEM TO YOUTUBE- check back later, please!
16631 oiling points
Model 16631 with stitch sample, manual, owner's workbook, quick threading chart, accessory case that stores in the scrap catcher, and a vinyl carry case |
Model 16631 with stitch sample, scrap catcher with accessory case removed. Notice 16631 and 16641 appear to be identical, but use different pedals |
Model 16641 was brought to me, in hopes that my hubby and I could fix it, since it was frozen solid, or "seized", according to the service tech the owner had first asked to fix it. (The tech attempted to turn the handwheel, couldn't, so determined it was unfixable.)
I saw it list for $25 as a parts machine, and reached out to the seller, to offer help, since I had just repaired a nearly identical model 16631 Kenmore serger that my hubby brought home, that was also seized up, frozen. This one was just a clean, oil, unseize it, job.
16441 with tutorial video, manual, pedal |
Kenmore 16641 stitching after repair. |
Apparently, the 16641 the owner brought me, had never been oiled (according to the owner). It was very clean, and had the upper looper out of timing, sticking out forward, the stitch plate had the stitch finger needle snapped off, and the knife was disengaged. Apparently, the knives had quit working, fabric probably wadded up on the stitch finger, and knocked the upper looper out of timing, and it was put away in this condition, and froze solid. (Oil dries to a lacquer like glue, in machinery, gluing them solid.)
Usually, a good cleaning and oiling will unseize a machine put away in good functioning condition, that the oil has dried to a glue, but this machine needed the needleplate replaced/repaired, the upper looper retimed, the knives fixed (the owner had never oiled it, and had serged over a pin), and the entire machine cleaned, inside and out, and oiled.
I used my usual cleaning and oiling, as described in my
cleaning and oiling sewing machines and serging post
I removed the casing, and thoroughly cleaned and oiled the inner mechanical parts, and had the stitch length, and differential feed all functional, but the bushing by the handwheel was still hung up, so I let it set overnight, then my hubby removed the handwheel (it didn't even have a screw holding it on!), and he was able to get it to turn, finally.
16641 needleplate with stitch finger needle snapped off |
16641 needleplate with stitch finger needle snapped off. |
16641 bottom view with plastic case completely removed notice all mechanical parts are metal |
16641 side panel and motor cover, thread stand removed |
16641 bottom with case removed |
16641 upper looper out of timing, a different view, notice how far out in front of the needles it is. |
The upper looper collided with the lower looper, until I retimed it, and my hubby was able to scoot the remaining piece of stitch finger needle forward, far enough to allow stitch formation.
Unfortunately, the knives on the 16641 are in rough shape, and do not cut properly, which is probably the reason for the damaged needleplate and upper looper, since excess fabric would cause a fabric and thread jam, which could have caused the damage. Tomorrow, I plan to clean and adjust them, to see if that fixes the issue, or if new blades are needed.
We unfroze the 16641, ordered a new needleplate and both knives. Installed them all, it serges like a new machine!
16641 with case removed, reveals metal mechanical parts |
Notice the mechanisms are all metal 16641 Underside bottom plate removed |
Stitch sample after repair and replacement of needleplate and both knives. |
16641 385.16641 repaired, tested, ready to go home! |
Undersides of old needleplate left, new needleplate right |
New knives left, old knives right |
CONCLUSION- these particular Janome manufactured Kenmore sergers are definitely worth fixing, even if seized up! If you have one, don't be afraid to remove the casing, and give it a complete oiling! Not just the oiling spots indicated in your manual, but EVERYWHERE that metal rubs against metal, or through metal.
The bushing where the handwheel driveline, or driveshaft goes through the wall of the machine, is a spot where all sewing machines and sergers require oiling, or it will seize up, and it is not shown as an oiling point, in most manuals. DO oil this bushing at least every few years, if you don't use it a lot, and run the machine, to work the oil in, keeping it freed up.