Belt Replacement on Kenmore sewing machines with dual belt system

 While some models have slightly different setups, here are basic instructions for changing the belts on dual belted vintage Kenmore sewing machines.

1603, 1703, 1803 Remove machine top by opening light cover, above the needle, then use a flathead screwdriver to pop top off (lifts left to right). It is held on by spring clips.

Some older Kenmores, 1753, 1755, for example, you remove 2 screws to remove top, any stitch cam must be removed before top can be removed (to remove cam, the cam door on some models, is also a cam follower release, and must be opened enough to allow cam follower to move off of cam) depending on model.

Loosen top 2 black screws from side panel top, above handwheel. This is what holds the side panel on.

Remove handwheel, some models you need a small hook to pop cover off, then remove handwheel screw and handwheel.

1603, 1703, 1803 have either a plastic cap, a thin metal cap, or a metal coated plastic decor cap over the handwheel screw, a tiny hook like shown here, works best to pop it off, with the least amount of damage. Slip hook in tiny hole on edge of cap. Cap may break, due to age, but it is decorative, not necessary to function, so don't beat yourself up, if it breaks.
After removing cap, remove center screw, and handwheel.

Some models, 1813, for example, the smaller, pullout style of handwheel doesn't need removed, side panel can be removed without handwheel removal.

Older models, like 1753 and 1755 will need the clutch knob and handwheel removed, before you can remove the side panel.

Once the side panel is removed you can see the belts, and the self adjusting belt pulley. 

1755 side panel removed to access belts, belt pulley, and to clean and oil any frozen reverse or stitch selector pivot parts.

Loosen motor mount with 13mm ratchet socket (adjustable wrench works too,) then scoot motor slightly up, to remove lower belt, top belt will come off, too, due to center self adjusting belt pulley between belts.

1802 shown as I loosen the motormount nut/bolt, it is on a slide, so when loose, motor can be slid up to loosen, or remove belts, down, to tighten belts.

I remove the motor from the motor mount, if I want to clean pulley and shaft (leave motor wiring attached), while I am changing belts, or working in this area, for easier access. (Machine runs better with fresh oil on a clean pulley shaft.)

(I recommend cleaning -qtip dipped in rubbing alcohol to remove sticky old oil- and oiling pulley shaft screw, while doing belt replacement. A drop of oil on the smooth shaft of this pulley screw, is what allows the pulley to spin, instead of a bearing.)



Belt pulley shaft screw is sticky with dry oil, clean with qtip dipped in rubbing alcohol, or deoderized kerosene

Clean inside of pulley with Qtip dipped in rubbing alcohol or deoderized kerosene, to remove dry sticky oil.  Add a drop or 2 of TriFlow oil, or sewing machine oil, inside this area, before sliding the pulley shaft screw back through, and screwing it back in place. Once screwed back in, remember to replace the nut that holds it on the self adjusting part.

Replace belts, longer belt goes on handwheel, and outer, smaller pulley, the shorter belt goes on the inner, larger pulley, then down on the motor pulley.

Scoot motor mount down to tighten belts (not too tight or it stresses motor), tighten bolt on motor mount.


Replace side panel, handwheel, and top.

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